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• MATRON BLOCKS - south Flatirons, Boulder - 3/21/09
  Content courtesy of Jason Beausoleil – 12/08
  Click here for a Google Map to the Matron boulders

History: Folks have been doing problems up here for at least, 30 years. Charlie Fowler and friends talked about this area 25+ years ago. FRB was up in here in the early 1980’s as well. Recently, Jason Beausoleil, Steve Woods, John Servold, Will LeMare and others have been primarily responsible for the development.

Pros: Close to Boulder. Great mountain setting, great problems and home of the "Golden Cashmere Sleeper" one of the best problems in the Flatirons. Possibility for more problems. Trad climbs nearby.

Cons: Long hike, no sun in the gully in the Fall/Winter so tends to be chilly even on sunny days. Also does not melt out quickly with no sun. Some of the problems are spread out so you have to move around alot. Entire area affected by raptor closure at the end of January. Area opens back up July 31. Please respect raptor closure.

Approach: Park where ever you are allowed in Eldorado Springs. Walk up behind the pool. Take the middle road that goes past the pink trailer (the rocket scientist lived in the pink trailer when she was a kid) follow the road as it curves left. It will look like you are heading up someone’s driveway. A steep trail will begin on your right. Hike up behind the houses and switch back up the valley. In 1 mile you will run into a wide trail/road go left here a few minutes until you run into the turn off for the Matron on your left.

A. Warm Up Block - more problems to be done. Needs a traverse around boulder.
1. SDS V1/2. Up cool flat slopers to a good hold at the lip.
2. V2. Start Right hand undercling and Left hand pinch, up bad edges to a committing move at lip.
3. V0. Move up left side of face using edges and jugs.
4. V1. Stand start or sit. Up right side of face with good holds and high step finish. Many variations exist.

B. The Heart Area - Bad ass little cave area.
5. V6/7. Low start. Left hand aręte, Right hand crack area. Move up aręte to a sweet set of crystals. Pull over and step off to the left or venture up high for the H.B.F.A.
6. Sloper Aręte V4. Stand? Stand start with heel and move up slopers to hidden edge then over. The low start matched on underclings is going to be difficult.
7. Chain Gang V6/7? Start on nice jug and slap up shitty, but good enough holds, to top.
8. Slither V5/6? Start on edges Right of jug then move right to aręte over block. Then roll back left along lip to a long move to a jug.
9. David Bowie V? Start at hollow jug. Up small edges to ? Then a jug.
10. Warm Ups. Easy. Start back in the hole and bust up. Can finish over the hole.
11. Project. SDS? Up aręte then left along the lip.

C. Red Fern Boulder
12. Ramp V2. Stand start up slopey ramp. Finish over The Red Fern.
13. The Red Fern V2. Start low on jug edge. Move up into dihedral. Holds get better up top.
14. Pocket Aręte V5? Stand start Right hand pocket. Move left on rad edges and feet.
15. Low Start V1. Up face to lip then over.
16. Jason's Dyno. Hard V? Start on jug in roof, huck way out to sharp edge.

D. Double Dihedral
17. Dihedral V? Start low at undercling. Up dihedral to a spooky topout.
18. Stand Start V2. Right hand edge then high step. Slab up to lip and over.
19. Fingersplitter V3/4? SDS. Undercling move left to undercling, match. Then up.
20. V2. SDS on aręte. Move right up lip then pull over #18.
21. Sloper Traverse V2. SDS on #20 but move left along slopers 15 feet then over.

22. Aręte V3. SDS. Up slopers to top then swing legs around left side of aręte then pull around left.

23. V2. Start like Scissor Fight but move up to sloper lip with cool holds and over.
24. Scissor Fight V8? Stand start Left hand jug and Right hand terrible crimp thing. Then huge throw to jug, match then stay low thru seam on small crimps across to jug. Then throw straight up to flat jug then pull over. Tops out better than it looks. Bad Landing! Problem should start matched on terrible crimp thing and throw to crimp before moving thru face. Probably adds at least one grade.

25. V2? Stand start. Good edge. Pull on and go straight over slab. Harder than it looks.
26. Black Leather Cat Suit V? Half stand start. Move right stay low, out to cool pinch then up sloper aręte. Easy top out. Excellent!

E. The Wave Block
27. Crack V0. Up crack. Also Downclimb.
28. Pound O Flesh V7/8? SDS. Undercling crack, move right to sidepull the bump. Heel, then up.
29. Golden Cashmere Sleeper low V8. 5 Stars. Stand at undercling throw Right hand. Then move to great sloper. Up to good crimp then sloper lip. Move right to a reasonable top out.
30. Bad Ass Project. 5 Stars probably. Undone. Low start right of #29. Move right up face.

overview: Maiden boulders, south Flatirons

•  Norwegian Wood & Toms Trove, Castlewood Ranch Boulders
  - south of Denver, Colorado  updated 12-23-05
  Click here for a Google Map for Norwegian Wood & Toms Trove
  Right Click & Save As here to download a pdf for Norwegian Wood & Toms Trove
  
  
  
  

  *Feedback on grades would be much appreciated.

  beta courtesy of Thomas Hanson.
  ………………………………………………………………………………………………
  
•  Tunnel 2 Boulder, Clear Creek Canyon  updated 2-26-05
  
  TUNNEL 2 BOULDER
  Directions: Head West on Hwy 6, into Clear Creek Canyon, until just before Tunnel 2. Park at pullouts (near Sonic Youth, same as parking for New River Wall & Wall of Justice) and walk over the bridge that's before Tunne l2. Head down a sandy slope, back toward Sonic Youth, following the creek. The Tunnel 2 boulder is on the north side, a few hundred yards down the creek. (Will be visible from road as you approach).

  1. FLASHED FLOOD V7: Climbs the right arête. Start right hand low on a flat crimp and left hand on left side of arete on a sloping edge. Move up the arête using crimps, heel hooks and pinches and exit either direct or moving left into a good rail system.

  2. AQUA HUCK V5: Start left hand on obvious jug in the middle of the face, and right hand on an incut crimp. Make a big move right to a sloping pinch, and move left through crimps to the good top out. Grade is probably height dependent.

  3. HIGH WATERS V6/7: Start on same jug as Aqua Huck, but move left through a sharp, right gaston, and a left sloping edge. Body tension and contact strength required for this one.

  *Feedback on grades would be much appreciated.

  beta courtesy of Joshua Cook.
  ………………………………………………………………………………………………
  
•  Dead Man's Gulch AKA Atlantis, St.Vrain Canyon  updated 12-20-04
  
  This canyon expands as one walks farther up, revealing a wealth of stone. Unfortunately, much of this beautiful canyon holds chossy, low-angle, cliff band, or other undesirable varieties of large-crystal granite. The Dead Man's Gulch Boulder itself, however, is host to a number of fun, yet sharp problems and well worth some time. This boulder was originally found and developed by Jason Beausoleil around the time he had his hand in developing Ape City a couple miles up canyon. As the story goes, Jason essentially worked only one problem on the boulder: Atlantis. After sorting out the moves with friends, Jason returned for a solo shot at the FA despite a prior fall that claimed a large amount of shin/leg skin. During the second wave of development, Justin Jaeger suffered a similar fate on Atlantis after missing a bump to the upper holds. He tried to catch his fall on a sharp-crystal jug, ripped off, and tried to then catch the tree behind him somewhat successfully. Result: one thumb, two palm, and three finger flappers to complement regular split tips. Moral: Until the boulder gets more traffic, bringing brushes to touch up loose or lichen-covered holds and seriously consider pre-taping vulnerable finger skin. Also note that the draw that the boulder is located in shelters it from sun almost entirely. Thus, the temperature at the boulder is generally ten or more degrees colder than the air temperature at the road, for better or worse!

  Approach Beta:
  Drive up St. Vrain Canyon and watch for mile marker 30. Immediately after MM 30, you will pass two signs on your right: Welcome to St. Vrain Canyon, and a National Forest sign. After the National Forest sign, look for a pull-out on your left and park. This pull-out has picnic tables and a very distinctive old bridge footer that looks like a stone staircase to nowhere. Once parked, cross the road and walk up canyon for about ten yards, pick up a well-worn single-track trail on the right side of the road that swerves through the smooth-stone wash of a small tributary. Walk more or less up the stream bed for about ten normal minutes to the namesake boulder, located streamside. Note: while this stream bed will take you directly to the boulder, better sections of trail will cut up from the stream, then back down to it. Pick and choose your favorite.

  
  DEAD MAN'S GULCH BOULDER
  Note: the projects listed herein are to lure hungry ascentionists. Also, many small boulders and cliff-band highballs exist in this gulch, though most have not seen development. Please email any FA sends with a given name to FRB for inclusion in this guide. If you wish to remain anonymous and/or wish to not rate the FA, omit such information, but please still provide notice and a name!

  LIL SWIG OF WARMTH V0/1ish FA: J.Beausoleil. This is the first problem you will see when walking up the stream bed. Climb the dirty edge/ledge/flake system that faces directly downstream.

  ATLANTIS V8  FA: J.Beausoleil. Start under the mini-roof on the main face of the boulder [faces little stream] left of center, matched on a large black pinch/ledge. Cruise left past the little tree on gastons, crimps, and sloping underclings before rounding the low bulge and cutting back and up on jugs to reach a section of three side-pulls on the right side of the upper bulge. The top out is a little unsteady, so don't relax too soon.
  Variation: climb 'atlantis,' though finishing with the more direct top out described in 'pacifico.'

  PACIFICO V8ish. Start sitting with large underclings a few moves right of the normal start for 'Atlantis.' Climb through 'atlantis', though utilizing a more direct finish on a pinch/crimp and sloper/pinch to gain the same final top out holds at the top of the upper bulge. This top out basically shoots up directly in front of the little tree after gaining the juggy cut-back section.

  KALIBER V5ish. Traverse left from the sit start of 'pacifico' to finish on 'lil swig…'

  Project-from a sit or stand, climb into the large left-angling undercling seam. Current beta to establish on the slab involves a desperate match on crimpy crystal glom, then powering out left to the side pulls of 'atlantis' before rocking back over right to the undercling crack. The sit start to this project will likely replicate the first moves of 'swerve driver.' Have at it!

  SWERVE DRIVER V7ish. Sit start as for 'pacifico' on large underclings, gain a slot up right, then a large rounded incut. Traverse right via powerful moves on good incuts and top out after a dynamic move to a sloper w/ a small edge. Swerve driver is essentially a contrivance of 'fine to drive.'

  FINE TO DRIVE V6ish. Sit start a couple feet right of 'pacifico,' again on large underclings. Power up to a left-hand incut and tension out to incuts for the same throw and top out of 'swerve driver.' This problem is the original and more direct version. Taller and/or less flexible climbers may have difficulty moving up with the right hand.

  DENIAL V9ish. Essentially a rightward traverse into 'swerve driver.' Start sitting on the left arête of the main face, towards the little tree, on a fat/slick undercling and a good edge directly above. Traverse through powerful moves on fat pinches, sloping ledges, and an optional fist-jam, to eventually replicate the top out of 'swerve driver.'

  Project-just right of 'fine to drive,' climb the slightly overhanging face using a poor gaston crimp, miserable low feet, and a hideous two-finger pinch to reach a good left-hand crimp and a reasonable top out. A sit start seems possible.

  MAY CAUSE BLINDNESS V7ish. A few more feet right on the main face, start on a high left-hand crimp or sidepull and a crimpy undercling. Power out dynamically to a good sloping section with an optional crimp undercling just below. Balance out right to a victory incut in a seem and top out straight up. New beta was discovered subsequent to the FA that may or may not make the problem a bit easier.

  Project-climb 'may cause blindness' avoiding the rightward victory incut by powering up slightly left to a slick crystal crimp section on the slab and reaching up right to a high sidepull crack system.

  CALMER THAN YOU, DUDE V7ish. A couple more feet right, start matched on a globular incut undercling with poorly positioned foot crystals or smears. Power up to a good left sidepull and bump your way through sidepull crimps to gain a sloping upper hold with a good crimpy sweet spot. Top out on good but dirty holds straight up.
  
  beta courtesy of Chip Phillips.
  ………………………………………………………………………………………………

•  RMNP CHAOS CANYON, EMERALD LAKE    updated mid Dec., 2004
  
  

  The Autobot V5 Chaos Canyon		**	Start in flat jug @ the bottom, about 18 ft of bouldering to the top.
  Automator V13 Chaos Canyon	Dave Graham	***	Start on Tommys Arete then cut left on small crimps to jug finish.
  Bush Pilot V11 Chaos Canyon	Dave Graham	***	Start in the bottom of the dihedral left hand pinch and right hand gaston low crimp, climb straight up the arete.
  Barbwire Beard V11, Upper Chaos Canyon	Adam Osterhoff	***	Start way left about 15 ft on good flat crimp, do the V3 traverse into the micro crimps and finish out up and left.
  Barbwire Mustache V11/12 upper Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Start left hand on a sloper pinch under the end section of Barbwire Beard and a right hand on the lowest possible crimp, then throw up to the first set of crimps on BWB and finish the rest of BWB.
  Balance Of Power Proj. V10? high Chaos		?	Climb the stair step jugs to some amazingly good incut crimps out the roof.
  Bonsai V7 Park entrance boulder	Wade David	**	Start on the lowest part of the big side pull, then climb up the slab to the bonsai tree in the rock. There is a good incut crimp there.
  Deep Puddle Dynamics V9 Chaos	?	***	Start on under clings then climb out the center big scooped roof.
  Double Deuce V10-V13 upper Chaos	?	**	Start on right facing big jug and climb straight up the 55 Degree roof through a 4ftx4ft hole and finish the slab out.
  El V9/10 upper Chaos	?		Climb up to the heel hook on Left El Jorge, but go left instead of up.
  Right El Jorge V9 upper Chaos	?	**	Start on left facing jug and go out right to a gaston and then top out.
  Left El Jorge V12 upper Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Climb straight out the roof, big lock-off moves and pulling hard on left heel hook.
  Eturnia Roof V11/12 upper Chaos	Dave Graham	**	Start way back in the roof just over the rock and blast out to the lip.
  Fatlady V10/11 Chaos	Dave Graham	*	Sit start on slopers then climb up slapping more shit on your way up to the top.
  Freak Of The Industry V14 Chaos	James Litz	**	Climb 2/3 rd's of Bush Pilot Then cut out right in small crimps finish up right.
  Freshly Squeezed V13 upper Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Start low and do some god damn squeezing.
  Gangbang V8 Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Start low on pinches and blast up.
  The Gobot V12 Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Start about 18 ft down on a jug then climb straight up, and no using the big jug a couple of moves in. dave never did it that way!
  Golden Rows Of Flows V11 Chaos	Dave Graham	**	Start on the under cling then blast up left hand to the micro crimps to the top.
  Handycapps V9 Chaos	Brian Capps	***	Start on the low under cling and climb up and right, and reach for the big spike jug and top out.
  Inner Sanctum V9 Emerald Lake	Wade David	*	Start low on under clings and climb straight out the left side of the roof.
  The Kind Traverse V11 Emerald Lake	Herm Fissner	***	Start on the left facing jug and traverse low and left to the top.
  The Kind V5 Emerald Lake	?	***	Start on the left facing jug of the Kind Trav. and climb up straight up.
  Large V10 Emerald Lake	?	**	Sit start a flat jug to a crimper then to a under cling, to make a big move to a crimper flake then up and left.
  Leviathan Style V11 (?)	Dave Graham	?

  Lone Orchestra V10/11 Chaos	Harry Robertson		start on two sloper crimps then go into a small under cling and do a big move to the top.
  Makala V7 Chaos	?	***	Start low on a flat jug and make a big move right to a ok crimp then into a gaston and up on more flat good crimps to the top.
  Mc Fly V9/10 upper Chaos	Wade David	*	This problem Traverses in to Omaha Stylee from the left, start way back in the hole/cave 10 ft.
  Nuthin But Sunshine V14 Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Start left hand rapping the left facing sloper and right hand in a slot. dave climbed straight up and right not out left, don't be a cheap skate!
  Omaha Stlyee V10 upper Chaos	Harry Robertson	*	Start left hand on the lowest crimp and right hand on the lowest crimp climd straight out the roof.
  Real Large V9 Emerald Lake	?	*	Start just right of Large V10 and climb left and up to a separate under cling then used on Large V10, then reach left to the big flake crimper, finish straight up.
  Revenge V5/6 Chaos	?	**	Start low on crimps and climb up using heel hooks.
  Stars and Stripes V11/12 Chaos	James Litz	*	Start on the sloper rail and climb straight to the horn and up.
  Skyscraper V5 Chaos	Dave Graham	***	Big ass Boulder behind Nuthing But Sunshine, Climb up the center left side to the top. Climb the whole 25 feet of it.
  Skipper Roof V11 upper Chaos	Dave Graham Sean Drolet	*	Start on the left facing sloper crimps and blast out left to some crimps and then climb straight out the roof.
  Skipper D V8 upper Chaos	?	***	Start on the sloper jugs then climb up using crimps, jugs, under clings, and heel hooks.
  Stranger In A Strange Land V12 Hallets	Dave Graham	?
  Super Gewy V8 Park entrance boulder	Wade David	*	Start on a big pinch low and go out left and up.
  The Thing V9/10 Chaos	?	*	Start on two big jugs then grab and micro crimp left hand and then right hand into a side pull, then blast up left to the top.
  Tommys Arete V8 Emerald Lake	Tommy Caldwell	***	Start low on a crimp and a sloper, and climb up the left facing arete.
  Tommys Arete V7 Chaos	Tommy Caldwell	***	Start way low on a jug then climb up the right facing arete
  Triple Threat V10/11 upper Chaos	Dave Graham Chad Greedy	***	Start left hand on a crimp and right hand on a jug way the F@#$ out left and do a big move into a sloper and then climb up the arete to the top.
  Valis V12/13 Chaos	Dave Graham	**	Start left hand on a under cling and right hand on a sloper pinch then throw right hand to a good crimp and climb up to the top, this is a big ass move.
  Whispers Of Wisdom V10/11 Emerald Lake	Adam Osterhoff	***	Start left hand sloper crimp right hand good crimp, slap your way up the 45 degree overhand and finish out the 25 foot slab.
  Weeping Willow V11 Hallets	Dave Graham	?

  
  beta courtesy of Wader David.
  ………………………………………………………………………………………………
  
  
•  BOULDER CANYON    updated November, 2004
  
  CONEY ISLAND CRAG
  Drive up Boulder Canyon approximately 9 miles and watch for a large rock crag that rises directly from the right side of the road. Parking may be found on either side of the road, though the pullouts are very thin. To find the problems, ascend the trail obvious on the up-canyon side of the formation, cross in front of the first stage of sport climbs [walking down-canyon along the cliff line], and continue uphill with the trail on the down-canyon side of the formation. On the top of the first tier of sport climbs sits a lone boulder.

  Unknown/Project? On the down-canyon, downhill side of the boulder [faces the road], an unknown problem or project ascends the overhanging arête with sidepulls and pinches. Careful of fragile looking flakes up high.

  Angry Dragon V7/8ish. FA: Will Lemaire. Deep in the dihedral/roof system that faces the road, start from an interesting and tricky start [almost laying down: left hand mantle; right hand small sloping gaston edge], pull up into a good undercling slot and climb left to establish on the arête under the roof. Then, gain the roof using slopers and incuts before making a huge stab to a horizontal finger jug in the upper dihedral. Top out. This low problem is ultra-funky and interesting!
  A variation may be done by climbing to the same lip holds, but tossing or statically powering out left to reach great holds on the left overhanging bulge, before rocking back over right to top out as normal. The grade on this seems in line with the original grade suggested.

  Unknown V.Moderate. On the uphill side of the boulder there is an oppositional problem that ascends the dirty crack/sidepulls from a sit.
  
  Unknowns V.Moderate. On the down-canyon face of the boulder exists the potential for a couple different tall moderates on good edges above a relatively marginal landing. Bring a brush and have fun.

  ……………………………………………………

  THE GRAHAM BOULDER
  After driving passed "Cob Rock" [just over 6 miles into the Boulder Canyon] look for an obvious sign on the right side of the road that states: "Boulder Falls 1000ft." Immediately after this sign, pull across traffic to a sizeable pull-out on the left side of the road. The Graham Boulder is faintly visible across the creek and about 70 yards downstream of this pull-out. The best crossing point will depend on whether you like it shallow and fast or deep and slow…stream crossings, that is. Do Not attempt to cross if the river is TOO FAST or TOO DEEP! Once on the other side, bushwhack with vigor to reach the boulder. The problems ascend the arêtes and face of the up-stream side. The stone quality is high, though the problems are short and thrutchy.

  Graham Arete Right V11. FA: Dave Graham. Though some anonymous 'locals' suggest otherwise] On the arête closest to the stream, start on an incut undercling with poor feet, slap up right to reach a decent hold and top out/mantle just left of center. The main foot chip to obtain the 'lip' holds crumbled since the first ascent making this problem slightly harder [or a little more 'solid' depending on your opinion].

  Capps Face V6/8. CFA: Brian Capps; (see caveat above) In the center of the upstream face, start on thin/sharp crimps and deadpoint to another crimp before gaining the juggy rail above. The grade of this one will highly depend on height-tall climbers may lockoff the starting holds and casually reach the next crimp with their foot still on a good 'foot jug' flake, while shorter climbers must lock down the starting crimps and stand on a high, less desirable foot to deadpoint to the next crimp and jug finish. Whatever. It's fun.

  Graham Arete Left V10. FA: Dave Graham. On the far arête, start with you left hand on a poor vertical sidepull and your right on a very cool and obvious sloping dish. Thrutch and deadpoint your way up more crimps and sloping holds to reach the good rail feature and top out.

  Scars Problem V.Moderate. On the cliff-facing side of the boulder, sit start through tricky and awkward moves using crack and pin scar-like holds before reaching good jugs to top out.
  Variations-utilizing the same sit start, on may contrive problems to use the thin horizontal crimps on the other side of the dihedral.
  …………………………………………………….

  NIP AND TUCK
  Drive just shy of 11 miles up boulder canyon. As you near this sport climbing cliff band, the road will flatten out slightly and will make a large, long turn to the left. Look for a widened dirt shoulder to park on the right side of the road just before the road cuts back into a right turn. Rock is spitting distance from the road.

  Caddis V10. When you pull off the right side of the road, you will be facing this problem. In the shallow scoop to the immediate left of the cliff band's blunt arête, start standing with thin crimps on the bulge and feet on the generous slab section beneath. Press out crimpy gastons with a bunchy foot to reach the obvious, slightly-sloping rail under the upper bulge. NOTE: many recent 'ascentionists' of this problem merely match this hold and drop off, having sent the 'crux.' Though the first moves are indeed difficult, tease half-sends likely spawn rumors of this line being soft. For the record, the difficulty is not over until one gains the scary-high ledge system at about 25 ft.; pulling the upper bulge is awkward and unstable [this author knows by failure, not success!]

  Unknown Pin Scar Problem. Walk passed 'caddis' up-canyon for about 60 yards to reach the next cliff band section. Towards the left side of the cliff, there is an obvious dihedral with pin scars trending left to a ledge system. There is a very large/awkward move towards the terminus of the dihedral making this one very difficult. Please submit name/grade/beta if you have any info!

  Ulysses Journey V8? Immediately to the right of the unknown pin scar dihedral, ascend the slightly overhanging face utilizing thin sharp crimps in a faint seam trending towards the same finishing ledge of the dihedral problem with an equally perplexing blank section before getting there. While the landing of this problem is fairly good, its height makes the upper section committing.

  Sloper Problem V5? Slightly further right of the pin scar dihedral and 'ulysses journey' a problem ascends interesting granite slopers. The exact finish is unknown.

  …………………………………………………..

  
  THE BARRIO
  Drive approximately 11 miles up Boulder Canyon or walk a short distance up from NIP/TUCK. This chipped and glued overhanging traverse system lies on the up-canyon side of a rock formation on the right side of the road. Vision to it is obscured by the stand of pine trees filling the low, flat land just infront/up-canyon from the rock formation. If not walking upcanyon from Nip/Tuck, park on a large pull-out on the cross-traffic, left side of the road just passed the rock and opposite a private drive. To find the climbing, cross the road from the parking and walk along the guard rail back down-canyon to find a thin, but worn trail leading through the trees to the overhang.

  Barrio Traverse V8/10ish. Start on the low left side of the long overhang and traverse right. The ground follows you up like every typical Boulder-area traverse! Top out/finish at the far right of the overhang feature after approximately a bazillion moves.

  Barrio Direct Life V8ish. An old chalk arrow used to point the way for this somewhat contrived, vertical problem [it's been brushed since]. Not quite half way through the traverse, locate a unique scooped incut edge in an otherwise blank section of the steep roof. This full-pad edge fits all four fingers and points towards the right. Once you've located this hold, scuttle under the overhang, find obvious starting holds, and sit start into this scoop/edge with your right hand, via a burly cross over. Work feet up and throw left to a distant and fairly blind jug section. Slopers may be used as intermediates. Continue up via good incut edges trending slightly right to victory jugs. Drop off or top out the chossy cliff.

  Barrio Direct Right V.hardish. For this variation, sit start so as to get the scoop edge with your left hand and power up on difficult holds to reach fairly thin edges that lead slightly back left towards the finish of 'direct left.' After the crux [moving up off the left hand scoop edge], avoid moving into the jugs off right.

  
  ……………………………………………………

  CASTLE ROCK AREA
  Drive approximately 12 miles up boulder canyon and look for this large, obvious formation mere yards off the left side of the road. The main pull-out is immediately after the formation. In addition to being adorned with many ultra-classic traditional leads, a few boulders litter the surrounding area. The rock here tends to be well-textured and bomber, lending itself to bulges, sharp-cut crimpers, and ergonomic slopers.

  
  CASTLE ROCK BOULDER
  On the immediate downstream side of castle rock there is a very obvious boulder that sits at the edge of Boulder Creek. The easiest stream crossing is accomplished by hopping stones in a nearly direct line from the dirt road to the boulder. During times of higher stream flow it may be easier to bushwack to the boulder from Highway 7 after parking at castle rock. The landings here may be reasonably tamed with a pad or two for the solo boulder.

  Standard Bulge V5. Though the history and name of this problem are unknown, its committing moves and quality rock make it an instant classic. On the side opposite from the stream start on sidepull/undercling crimpers at chest level, pull to more crimps in the bulge and slap oppositional slopers before a committing toss to the good sloper lip. The disconcerting rock in the landing pads up well.

  The Citadel V8 FA: Will Lemaire. On the blunt arête directly right of 'standard bulge', start sitting at two large sidepulls and climb up using thin crimps with your right hand and another good sidepull with your left before tossing to your choice of subtle sweet spots on the sloping lip above.

  Unknown. On the upstream face, start in the center of the boulder with an incut sidepull flake and tension out left with large sidepulls and poor feet. Avoid the arm-bar/barn door on the tree and top out. NOTE: despite their large size, a few of these big holds flex substantially and may snap off.

  Hit Hard Tactics V7ish. FA: maybe J.Jaeger. Though perhaps easier than seven, the crimpiness and awkwardness of the moves may warrant it??… Climb the arête overhanging the stream, starting with a decent left hand crimp and either a right hand sidepull-crimp or a poor horizontal crystal crimp. Either finagle an awkward left foot or campus to a sweet spot on the lip and mantle, being ever mindful of the boulder just behind your back. Tall climbers may take advantage of a good-looking right foot that may change the character of the move. Who knows?
  Variation Project. Climb HHT from a sit, starting with sharp obvious crimps. This one may prove to be as painful as it is difficult.

  
  HARDBOILED BLOCK
  Park at Castle Rock and walk about 50+ yards up the highway, looking for a large tangle of logs in the creek below. Cross the creek on this log jam and tend upstream and uphill until finding a faint trail. Skirt the base of the slab cliff, walking up and over a section of talus. As your are descending the talus 'ridge' look to your right to see the side of 'hardboiled.' While this is not the highest boulder in the world, the desperateness of the lower moves and the awkwardness of getting situated on the slab make it advisable to have a few pads and/or a spotter to guard against explosive and unexpected falls.

  Hardboiled V11 FA: Daniel Woods. Though the grade on this nice sds is contended to be slightly easier, a highly flexing flake in the lower moves may soon force its grade the other way. From a sit, pull through powerful moves on decent holds, gaining left-hand edges with fierce slaps. Reach the lip of the slab, reach some no so awesome crimps and sidepulls to rock onto your feet and seize bragging rights with the easy top out above.

  Nintendo V4 FA: Wade David. Immediately above 'hardboiled' is an A-frame block resembling both the Bishop boulder problem and its commercial symbol namesake. From a sit, ascend the double arêtes to the 6ft. top out.
  …………………………………………………………………………

•  APE CITY, South St. Vrain    updated November, 2004
  
  In the fall of 2004, Marcelo Montalva and Justin Jaeger spent a number of days playing around at this small area trying to fill in the gaps between the developed classics. Many of the problems described below are variations to existing lines, developed in the most part by john servold and Jason Beausoleil, though some are entirely new. The grades given are estimates, as neither Justin or Marcelo can be trusted to give an accurate rating due to their unique styles, dementia, and idiosyncratic physical characteristics [Justin’s 6’7’’ height and +9 ape index; Marcelo’s legal dwarf status]. If I gave a name/FA credit to a line you did, please send such information to FRB to make the necessary modifications.

  
  GUNSLINGER BLOCK
  Illegal Cowpoke V7/8. Essentially a variation: start sitting as for ‘Gunslinger’ and use crimps, slopers, and gastons to build your feet and ascend the slabby face tending to the right of the arête. The arête itself is not ‘off’; one must naturally avoid the holds on the left face.

  
  SIMIAN ADVENTURE BLOCK
  See No Evil V8ish. Start at the bottom of the obvious diagonal rail and slap and slope your way up to the terminus of the feature, pick out some tricky feet, and power out left to a juggy sidepull meeting with the top out of ‘simian adventure.’
  Variation v7ish—do ‘see no evil’ starting on the natural cheater block.

  
  Liza's Lockoff V?? FA: Charles Fryberger. Climb the ‘rail’ problem proper-style, from the lowest start through the direct top out. Sticking and matching the lip is the crux, though it has been said that wishing Chuck’s kid sister a happy birthday will bring good luck. A good edgy gaston out right will help you roll over with confidence. This problem should be a clean bet for even the most egregious dabber.

  
  Simian Adventure [variation] V7ish. Do ‘simian adventure’ by starting with both hands crimping the sloping glom. Campus to the jug immediately above and don’t spin off!

  
  200LB. Gorilla V7ish. FA: J. Beausoleil. Start as for ‘Simian Adventure’ but after gaining the middle jug, climb left on a leaning blocky hold, bust out further left to the boulder’s lip, and continue the lip traverse all the way to the ‘Sgt. Fury’ top out.
  Variation V8ish. Do the ‘200lb. Gorilla’ link-up, though starting with the crimpy campus start to ‘Simian Adventure’

  
  Banana Slap V7/10ish. FA: Marcelo Montalva. A few feet right of ‘Sgt. Fury’, start standing at a good left sidepull and a sloping crimp and dyno through this steep overhang to the sweet spots on the sloping lip. Top out straight or by traversing a few feet to the left. The grade will depend highly on your height and dyno ability.
  ………………………………… ………………………………… …………………………………

  THE BIG SEXY AKA MM28
  This big and beautiful block lies directly at the start of the trail up to ape city proper. It sits on relatively flat ground one level above the streambed.

  
  Spraypaint Silverback V7ish. On the stream-facing side, start on the right arête with your right hand on a decent sloper at 7 feet and left hand out and lower on a foot-hold-like crimp on the face. Tension and slap up and left on the arête until reaching the sloping but blocky top of the feature. Mantle and top out the rest of the slab slightly right of the arête. The holds are still dirty up high, but are all there—be careful and consider taking a brush with you.
  Variation—PROJECT—climb the entire right arête, starting nearly sitting from an obvious low edge on the lip.

  
  Angerbeast V7ish. Just right of the very blunt left arête of the stream-facing side, start with a high reach to the crimpy not-so-sweet spots on the highly sloping rail directly in front of two small saplings. Stacked pads may be helpful to reach these crimps. Find a tiny crystal foot of your choice, set, and dead point to the obvious sloping feature a couple feet above. Ascend the obvious ledges straight up, using friable sidepulls over the left side of the high arête [careful!] to eventually gain small stabilizing holds with your right and good ‘thank-god’ holds on the left side of the arête with your left to pull the easy mantle. Note: this problem was originally done by Jason B. by exiting towards the right arête—another choice for the climber, because here at Ape City, we want you to have it your way.
  Variation Project. At the same starting holds, crimp, slope, and slap your way diagonally across the face via the cool sloping rail until reaching the right arête. Top out as for ‘spraypaint silverback.’

  
  Big Sexy Slabs V0-V? Many large undercling and side pull flakes exist to ascend the compelling downstream face of this large boulder. Again, bring a brush to clean holds in situ, though the most obvious features have been cleaned.

  
  Big Sexy Arete AKA Coconut Brasserie V0/1. Layback the sharp arête that points directly upslope/away from the river.

  
  Curiosity Killed The George. Jump problem. FA: Marcelo Montalva. On the blank upstream face, sprint and scramble up the steep slab, catching an unlikely but ok sloping hold on the bottom edge of the obvious dip in the center of the face and match to mantle out. While this hold seems more unlikely to hang than the more squared sections of the boulder’s lip, the six less inches of vertical needed to obtain these grips seems critical.
  
  all beta courtesy of JJ, et al.
  

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