Hello
Home

Clear Creek
More Clear

Eldorado Canyon
West World
West Ridge
Cloud 9
Rincon Boulders
Physical Boulders
The FreightTrain
Hazard County

The FlatIrons
Elephant Rock
Matron Blocks
Terrain Boulders
The Ghetto
Satellites
The Gutter

Boulder Canyon
Dome Boulder
The Patio
The Strip Mine
The Clocktower

Lyons/St. Vrain
Big Elk Meadows
Dragon's Den
Lion's Den
North Shore
Ape City
Atlantis

Elysium

Reads
Articles
Interviews
Short Stories
Message Board

Miscellaneous
Slide Show
Photographs
Video of the Day
Podcast
Archives
Rock Gyms
Links
What's New
Submit an Area
Site Map
Contact Us
hello

Try Blockbuster Total Access Free for 2 Weeks



Atlantis aka Deadman Gulch, South St. Vrain
Deadman Gulch expands as one walks farther up, revealing a wealth of stone. Unfortunately, much of this beautiful canyon holds chossy, low-angle, cliff band, or other undesirable varieties of large-crystal granite. The Deadman Gulch Boulder itself, however, is host to a number of fun, yet sharp problems and well worth some time. This boulder was originally found and developed by Jason Beausoleil around the time he had his hand in developing Ape City a couple miles up canyon. As the story goes, Jason essentially worked only one problem on the boulder: Atlantis. After sorting out the moves with friends, Jason returned for a solo shot at the FA despite a prior fall that claimed a large amount of shin/leg skin. During the second wave of development, Justin Jaeger suffered a similar fate on Atlantis after missing a bump to the upper holds. He tried to catch his fall on a sharp-crystal jug, ripped off, and tried to then catch the tree behind him somewhat successfully. Result: one thumb, two palm, and three finger flappers to complement regular split tips. Moral: Until the boulder gets more traffic, bringing brushes to touch up loose or lichen-covered holds and seriously consider pre-taping vulnerable finger skin. Most of the lines are in the V5 to V8 range.  Atlantis and Pacifico each involve interesting low moves, but each require a bit of bloody slapping up a bulge feature. Atlantis keeps right on the main bulge and Pacifico cheats out left a bit.  either way, these tend to grind your skin down a bit and do not flow quite as well as the more direct, easier lines. The best time of the year to visit is probably late winter through the early spring before the Poison Ivy and snow melt become problematic. Also note that the draw that the boulder is located in shelters it from sun almost entirely. Thus, the temperature at the boulder is generally ten or more degrees colder than the air temperature at the road, for better or worse!  South St. Vrain bouldering could probably be considered still in its infancy. Elysium has way more climbs than Atlantis, some of which are pretty good. Ape City has the best rock quality. so all in all, Atlantis is worth climbing at but perhaps in conjunction with a visit to the other mini areas in the region.
- beta courtesy of Justin Jaeger.
Justin Jaeger's blog.


Getting There:
Drive up South St. Vrain Canyon and watch for mile marker 30. Immediately after MM 30, you will pass two signs on your right: Welcome to St. Vrain Canyon, and a National Forest sign. After the National Forest sign, look for a pull-out on your left and park. This pull-out has picnic tables and a very distinctive old bridge footer that looks like a stone staircase to nowhere. Once parked, cross the road and walk up canyon for about ten yards, pick up a well-worn single-track trail on the right side of the road that swerves through the smooth-stone wash of a small tributary. Walk more or less up the stream bed for about ten normal minutes to the namesake boulder, located stream side. Note: while this stream bed will take you directly to the boulder, better sections of trail will cut up from the stream, then back down to it. Pick and choose your favorite.
Click to view a google map for the trail head.


DEADMAN GULCH BOULDER
Note: the projects listed herein are to lure hungry ascentionists. Also, many small boulders and cliff-band highballs exist in this gulch, though most have not seen development. Please email any FA sends with a given name to FRB for inclusion in this guide. If you wish to remain anonymous and/or wish to not rate the FA, omit such information, but please still provide notice and a name. Thank you.
 

The Problems:
1. LIL SWIG OF WARMTH V0/1
FA: Jason Beausoleil. This is the first problem you will see when walking up the stream bed. Climb the dirty edge/ledge/flake system that faces directly downstream.
2. ATLANTIS V8
FA: Jason Beausoleil. Start under the mini-roof on the main face of the boulder [faces little stream] left of center, matched on a large black pinch/ledge. Cruise left past the little tree on gastons, crimps, and sloping underclings before rounding the low bulge and cutting back and up on jugs to reach a section of three side-pulls on the right side of the upper bulge. The top out is a little unsteady, so don't relax too soon.
Variation: climb Atlantis, though finishing with the more direct top out described in Pacifico.
3. PACIFICO V8
Start sitting with large underclings a few moves right of the normal start for Atlantis. Climb through Atlantis, though utilizing a more direct finish on a pinch/crimp and sloper/pinch to gain the same final top out holds at the top of the upper bulge. This top out basically shoots up directly in front of the little tree after gaining the juggy cut-back section.
4. KALIBER V5
Traverse left from the sit start of Pacifico to finish on Lil Swig of Warmth.
5. Project - from a sit or stand, climb into the large left-angling undercling seam. Current beta to establish on the slab involves a desperate match on crimpy crystal glom, then powering out left to the side pulls of Atlantis before rocking back over right to the undercling crack. The sit start to this project will likely replicate the first moves of Swerve Driver. Have at it!
6. SWERVE DRIVER V7
Sit start as for Pacifico on large underclings, gain a slot up right, then a large rounded incut. Traverse right via powerful moves on good incuts and top out after a dynamic move to a sloper with a small edge. Swerve Driver is essentially a contrivance of Fine To Drive.
7. FINE TO DRIVE V6
Sit start a couple feet right of Pacifico, again on large underclings. Power up to a left-hand incut and tension out to incuts for the same throw and top out of Swerve Driver. This problem is the original and more direct version. Taller and/or less flexible climbers may have difficulty moving up with the right hand.
8. DENIAL V9
Essentially a rightward traverse into Swerve Driver. Start sitting on the left arête of the main face, towards the little tree, on a fat/slick undercling and a good edge directly above. Traverse through powerful moves on fat pinches, sloping ledges, and an optional fist-jam, to eventually replicate the top out of Swerve Driver.
9. Project - just right of Fine To Drive. Climb the slightly overhanging face using a poor gaston crimp, miserable low feet, and a hideous two-finger pinch to reach a good left-hand crimp and a reasonable top out. A sit start seems possible.
10. MAY CAUSE BLINDNESS V7
A few more feet right on the main face, start on a high left-hand crimp or sidepull and a crimpy undercling. Power out dynamically to a good sloping section with an optional crimp undercling just below. Balance out right to a victory incut in a seem and top out straight up. New beta was discovered subsequent to the FA that may or may not make the problem a bit easier.
11. Project - climb May Cause Blindness avoiding the rightward victory incut by powering up slightly left to a slick crystal crimp section on the slab and reaching up right to a high sidepull crack system.
12. CALMER THAN YOU, DUDE V7
A couple more feet right, start matched on a globular incut undercling with poorly positioned foot crystals or smears. Power up to a good left sidepull and bump your way through sidepull crimps to gain a sloping upper hold with a good crimpy sweet spot. Top out on good but dirty holds straight up.

 

 

 

 


Justin Jaeger on Atlantis V8


Justin Jaeger sends Pacifico V8, Deadman Gulch block,  Atlantis, South St. Vrain
Justin Jaeger on Pacifico V8


Alex on Fine To Drive V6, Deadman Gulch block, Atlantis, S. St. Vrain
Alex on Fine To Drive V6
    





DISCLAIMER
Copyright © Frontrangebouldering.com, 2000-2009
Send questions or comments to
info@frontrangebouldering.com

Home