Boulders, AKA Droegerland - Bear Peak
Tucked away in the southern Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado
is yet another new wealth of boulders problems known as the Terrain Boulders.
The problems have all been done with the utmost respect for the rock (no
chipping) and the fragile surroundings should be treated with the same care
(stay on trails, pack out your trash, etc.). People have been bouldering
here for some time, and a handful of nice, low traverses were done, but
the majority of the tall, hard problems have been bum-rushed with more modern
technologies such as crash pads and spotters.
Pros: Peaceful setting, varied bouldering and a handful
of stout test pieces
to hurl yourself at. Good rock.
Cons: Can stay snowy (rocks are in trees)
30 minute approach,
some sharp grips.
to Get There:
Take Table Mesa Drive west past King Soopers, and take a left
onto Lehigh Drive
after about 1 miles. Go up (south) on Lehigh for less than a mile
and take a right on
Cragmoor near the top of the hill. Drive to the end of Cragmoor and
park in the cul-de-sac.
Hike up the north fork of the Shanahan trail. At the Mesa trail go
left (south), descending
into a gully and climbing a hill out of it. Once at the top of the
hill go right (west) and
follow a faint trail past cairns for about ten minutes (roughly 300
The Bob Boulder is in the meadow down the hill to the south. The rest
of the boulders
are northish, hidden in the forest almost up to the base of the Flatirons:
(The Slab, Shanahan Crags).
of the Terrain Boulders
Main Area Overview:
Funk Soul Boulder
Small, not too good boulder hidden
in the forest towards the gully.
1. The Nipple * V2
2. Undone sit start thingy.
3. All About Bob * V2
4. What About Bob *** V5 Up to the hueco, right
through crimps way up. Colorado Top
5. Bob Hopes ** V6 Up to hueco and left into #6.
6. Railing Bob ** V5 SE corner. Up rails on arete.
7. Bob Spelled Backwards ** V2 Up the narrow dihedral.
8. Bob in a Blender * V4 Sharp.
Miah on Bob Boulder
9. Madam Assey ** V0- South slab.
10. Schnitzel Bock * V2 Upper traverse. Go left to right and finish up #14.
11. Schweinhund V9 butt-dragger low traverse.
12. V1 * Stand start and up.
13. Funk Soul Roof * V4 Sit start @ pockets and pull straight up.
14. V2 * Sit start and go up slopers.
boulder, but so forested that
on 4 Her Pleasure, V-4
all you see from the top is Fairview
15. Kleine Schlampe ** V3 Start low in crack and traverse
L. through crimps and up.
16. Eara Fuchin Schmuckin *** V3 Traverse L. to
end of crack then straight up jugs
17. Shoots and Ladder *** V5 Sit start in crack,
move up and right through sloper, the
18. Snuff V1 Sit start NE corner.
19. Parasol *** V5 Sit start under roof and pull up
20. Corner V2 Dirty.
21. Kenny G's Meat Whistle ** V8 Start low under roof
on underclings and pull past very small
22. Plush ** V7 Low start. Sloper with crystal and over
bulge to top. 23. Shag * V3
24. Very Short Fat Man V4 Traverse L. and up.
25. For Her Pleasure * V4 Sit start past sharp pockets
and up ribbed bulge.
26. GFP. ** V1 SW corner.
on the Tower of Power V10
AKA Miah In A Blender
27. Ejector Seat ** V6 Start at R. and move up
and left to gain the corner. Pull over.
28. HighBall/Solo V5 *** Delicate moves up high.
29. The Tower of Power (AKA Miah In A Blender) V10
Start low, finish high. Outstanding!
30. It Satisfies ** V5 Start low in the small corner.
Up to ramp. Keep going up up up.
31. Under The Influence ** V2 The line of least resistance.
An idiot would do it drunk.
32. Traverse from #29 and top out on big holds.
Pumpy. * V4
33. Left Corner * V? Sketchy rock.
34. Trench Mouth ** V2 Move up crack systems
to flakes. Slab top out.
35. V3 *** Slab/bulge on good holds. HighBall !
Take care of the Bonsai-looking pine tree @ base.
36. Nice undone line to the left of tree.
37. Wax On ** V3
38. Wax Off ** V2 Up and right to top out.
Lots of scary slabby potential.
39. Railing Cantaloupe ** V4 Start in underclings
and move out and up high south
The Love Boat
Big! If it were 1985 this would be bolted.
40. SE Corner V3
41. High bulge with much potential. Fantastic!
42. Hot buttered Cock Porn ** V4 High and scary
L. of tree.
43. Tall Boy *** V3 Right of tree. Up to big undercling,
past two ledges and slightly
right to finish.
44. Glass Plate ** V3 Past laybacks, underclings
45. Famous V5 *** V4 Up to small
undercling. Crimps to top.
46. NE Corner ** V7 Undercling and
shallow, sharp dishes. Finish to left.
47. Having A Moment *** V4 Wavy north face.
48. Limbo Stick * V4 NE facing problem just
down and N. of LoveBoat. Layback
following are on boulders
south-westish up to top of hill.
49. Having A Moment *** V5 A stellar line going way up pockets
on the L. side of the W. face.
50. Paulious Maximus * V4 Sit start up south face.
51. Uberhangin * V3 Up overhang past pockets (W. facing)
topo to find the following:
of here is a good east facing diamond-shaped wall with crimps.
- Down to the
south is the south facing Rice Wall with thousands of good pockets
for the avid contorted boulderer.
- At the base
of the Shanahan Crag is a N. facing Ghetto-like slot with:
- 52. Ghetto
In A Blender * V4
Death Arete Grotto
is much development
to be done in this area.
53. & 54. Technical Toe Dance
Slabs * V3
55. Arete Traverse V0
Put on yer jumpsuit fer this one!
56. Evil Kinevil *** V3 Up the middle
of the face through pockets
57. Evil Twin ** V5 Up tallest line.
Big move at top.
Huge SE facing overhang,as if Hans lost
control and crashed to earth.
58. Hand Solo ** V4 Start in slots
move up, then left. Exit above
boulder. Don't touch back!
59. Undone Traverse from #58
and top out #60!
60. Spewbacka *** V5 You'll want
Moses with you when you top
this one out.
61. Princess Layme ** V4 Start low
and move right to the ramp
N. end. Then straight up.
62. Sit start on little boulder up to
NW before dropping to...
is a little hike through the thick
Jay Droeger on Alpine Pansy V5
forest down to the North. Worth
63. Somebody traversed through the
Cave and up *? V?
64. East Face Center ** V3
65. Start #66, to slot in face, dyno to #64 **
V6 to V10, depending on your
66. Alpine Pansy *** V5 Technical, devious, strenuous...
and absolutely mortifying arete.
Brian Kimball on Black Ice V10
Black Ice is a brilliant new addition from local Will LeMaire.
Will found the problem & hiked up there by himself many days
before the ascent. Black Ice may be the best problem in the
Flatirons. There has been a lot of speculation about the grade
but it seems to have settled around V10/11. It is located in
Fern Canyon. The easiest way to ge there is to follow the directions
to the Terrain Blocks. When you get to the base of the Great
Slab, the trail to the Terrains heads left. Take the right hand
fork right for Black Ice. You will follow this trail for about
a quarter mile down and up a gulley before interescting the
Shanahan Trail. Continue left, or uphill until you come to an
obvious, bolted, red arete on the right side of the trail. Black
Ice climbs out the roof on the left side of the trail. It starts
in the very back on a bread loaf pinch & comes straight out
the roof. A sit-start was added by Brian Kimball which adds
several moves of pump by climbing through the starting footholds.
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