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Matron Blocks south Flatirons
       

History:  Folks have been doing easy problems up in here for at least 30 years. Charlie Fowler and friends talked about this area 25+ years ago. FRB was up in here in the early 1980’s as well. Recently, Jason Beausoleil, Steve Woods, John Servold, Will LeMare and others have been primarily responsible for the development.

Pros: Close to Boulder. Great mountain setting, great problems and home of the "Golden Cashmere Sleeper" one of the best problems in the Flatirons. Possibility for more problems. Trad climbs nearby.

Cons: Long hike, no sun in the gully in the Fall/Winter so tends to be chilly even on sunny days. Also does not melt out quickly with no sun. Some of the problems are spread out so you have to move around alot. Entire area affected by raptor closure at the end of January. Area opens back up July 31. Please respect raptor closure.

Getting There:
Park where ever you are allowed in the town of Eldorado Springs. Or you can park in Eldorado Canyon State Park and walk down. Walk up behind the pool. Take the middle road that goes past the pink trailer (the rocket scientist lived in the pink trailer when she was a kid) follow the road as it curves left. It will look like you are heading up someone’s driveway. A steep trail will begin on your right. Hike up behind the houses and switch back up the valley. In 1 mile you will run into a wide trail/road go left here a few minutes until you run into the turn off for the Matron on your left.
Here's a google map that delineates the trail head
.

The Problems:
 

A. Warm Up Block
- more problems to be done. Needs a traverse around boulder.
1. SDS V1/2. Up cool flat slopers to a good hold at the lip.
2. V2. Start Right hand undercling and Left hand pinch, up bad edges to a committing move at lip.
3. V0. Move up left side of face using edges and jugs.
4.V1. Stand start or sit. Up right side of face with good holds and high step finish. Many variations exist.

B. The Heart Area
- Bad ass little cave area.
5. V6/7. Low start. Left hand arête, Right hand crack area. Move up arête to a sweet set of crystals. Pull over and step off to the left or venture up high for the highball F.A.
6. Arête V4. Stand? Stand start with heel and move up slopers to hidden edge then over. The low start matched on underclings is going to be difficult. smiley face
7.Chain Gang V6/7? Start on nice jug and slap up shitty, but good enough holds, to top.
8. Slither V5/6? Start on edges Right of jug then move right to arête over block. Then roll back left along lip to a long move to a jug.

 

Matron Blocks overview

9. David Bowie V10. Start at hollow jug. Up small edges to ? Then a jug.
10. Warm Ups. Easy.  Start back in the hole and bust up. Can finish over the hole.
11. Project. SDS? Up arête then left along the lip.

C. Red Fern Boulder
12. Ramp V2. Stand start up slopey ramp. Finish over The Red Fern.
13. The Red Fern V2. Start low on jug edge. Move up into dihedral. Holds get better up top.
14. Pocket Arête V5? Stand start Right hand pocket. Move left on rad edges and feet.
15. Low Start V1. Up face to lip then over.
16. Jason's Dyno. Hard V? Start on jug in roof, huck way out to sharp edge.

.
D. Double Dihedral
17. Dihedral V? Start low at undercling. Up dihedral to a spooky topout.
18. Stand Start V2. Right hand edge then high step. Slab up to lip and over.
19. Fingersplitter V3/4? SDS. Undercling move left to undercling, match. Then up.
20. V2. SDS on arête. Move right up lip then pull over  #18.
21. Sloper Traverse V2. SDS on #20 but move left along slopers 15 feet then over.
22. Arête V3. SDS. Up slopers to top then swing legs around left side of arête then pull around left.
23. V2. Start like Scissor Fight but move up to sloper lip with cool holds and over.



24. Scissor Fight V8? Stand start Left hand jug and Right hand terrible crimp thing. Then huge throw to jug, match then stay low thru seam on small crimps across to jug. Then throw straight up to flat jug then pull over. Tops out better than it looks. Bad Landing! Problem should start matched on terrible crimp thing and throw to crimp before moving thru face. Probably adds at least one grade.
25. V2? Stand start. Good edge. Pull on and go straight over slab. Harder than it looks.
26. Black Leather Cat Suit V? Half stand start. Move right stay low, out to cool pinch then up sloper arête. Easy top out. Excellent!

E. The Wave Block
27.  Crack V0. Up crack. Also Downclimb.
28. Pound O Flesh V7/8? SDS. Undercling crack, move right to sidepull the bump. Heel, then up.
29. Golden Cashmere Sleeper  low V8. 5 Stars. Stand at undercling throw Right hand. Then move to great sloper. Up to good crimp then sloper lip. Move right to a reasonable top out.
30. Bad Ass Project. 5 Stars probably. Undone. Low start right of #29. Move right up face
.

 

 

 

 


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