Park Tech area
These hidden choice
chunks of slightly overhanging, Fountain formations are scattered around
the SW end of West World. Overlooked until recently, the Park Tech Boulders,
are a welcomed addition to the area. The problems range from 10 feet high
power problems to 20 feet tall airy highballs. Don't forget your pads and
West World is on the hillside west of the West Ridge in Eldorado Canyon
State Park. Eight miles south west of Boulder, Colorado. Drive
.5 miles into the Eldorado Canyon State Park. You'll pass the Milton rock,
which sits right on the road. Continue a 150 feet to two small parking areas
on the right. Park. Cross
the river at the first small parking area and hike left less then 100 feet
to go to the ParkTech. VIA is 75 feet right across the talus field from
the ParkTech. A faint trail leads right from the river down a slippery ramp
to Truth and Low Tide Blocks. You can also cross the river just east of
the Milton rock. If the river is too high to cross. Park in the main
area down low and cross the bridge and hike west along the CreekSide Trail
until it dead ends at the stream. Scramble around the toe of the West Ridge
and then either follow faint trails left along the river or hike up a couple
of hundred feet to the West Ridge Traverse and go off left along a faint
trail to Germ Free Adolescence then drop down from there.
|Truth Area, West World
|Park Tech Area overview
The climbing here takes place on very solid maroon
rock akin to the water-polished faces on the Gill and Milton boulders on
the south side of the river or up the road. Footholds are sparse, so technique
is at a premium, as is crimp strength and a working knowledge of good body
Low Tide Block
below the Truth Block and right next to the river, the Low Tide
Block currently offers 3 short problems hidden in the trees. The
Left Side V-3 starts off the block and works right via sidepulls
and then straight up. The SW Corner V-1 is short and straight forward.
Work your way up obvious holds. The SE Slab V-1 rounds over the
bulge on the back side of the rock next to the river. There is potential
for a few more lines.
on the f.a. of Dare V-3
1. Truth (V-5):
** Sit Start. Center of the SE
the river from Milton rock and 100 feet below Germ Free Adolescence,
the Truth Block was long overlooked. You'll find steep classic Eldo.
sandstone with slab finishes. Eric Lunn first unearthed Truth V5
and also added a sit start. Eric Johnson did Nice Move V2. Paul
Lembeck climbed the highball Dare V3.
face. Work up edges to a side pull at lip.
Go up and right.
2. Nice Move (V-2): Start left of Truth.
Left hand on the horn. Match at the lip
and go right to Truth.
3. Dare (V-3): ** Start at #2 and go left
past horn, over the drop-off, to edge in
the scoop. Highball!
4. Truth Or Dare (V-3):** Start left and
below #3 15 feet. Work over tiers go left.
5. Truth Traverse (V-5):Start at #2, go right.
The High Spire
The High Spire (AKA) Stratosphere Rock is up the hill and
behind the Gern Free Boulder. Mind Boggle Boulder is next to the
west side. Although there is only 5 problems on this rock it shouldn't
be missed. Steep thin face climbing and a highball crack on the
south face. The descent is off the back side.
- Squealer (V-4): * Angle up and left on edges.
- UnNamed (V-5): Start a few feet right of
Squealer, then angle up and right.
- 3 Beers (V-4): * Start on the SW corner
and angle up and left.
- 2 Beers (V-3): ** Start on the SW corner and work straight up
to a pouch below the right angling crack, then straight up via
- Stratosfear (V-2): * HighBall! Start on the SW corner and work
up to the crack, then angle right and pull over.
Murphy on UnNamed V5
Lantz sends 2 Beers V-3
|Kevin O. on
Viral Infested Adulthood (VIA)
Is a fun hidden
slab 75 feet right of the ParkTech Block across the small talus field.
VIA V-1 goes up the center of the south face and starts at the cluster
of trees. The crux is down low. Just left of VIA, Paul's Face V-2 works
up through edges and sidepulls. The Left Side V-4 follows the left arete
via edges and a heel lock to a step off left.
Park Tech Block
feet from the river and having a good landing, this 10-foot high
erratic offers more than what is first apparent. If your fingertips
are up for the challenge throw yourself at ParkTech1 or the variations.
- Left Side (V-4): Sit Start at the
horizontal rail left of the tree.
Reach right, go left.
- Tone's Warm Up (V-2): Sit Start at
the obvious horizontal rail left of the
tree go right up the crack.
- ParkTech1 (V-5):** Start matching on
the small left-facing dihedral and work
up and left with either hand to the
hueco at the lip and over.
Variation (V-5): Do the normal start
but grab a small edge right of the
hueco then go left and over.
Variation (V-6): Do the normal start,
work right on edges a few feet
then pull over.
West End Rock
The West End Rock is up the hill 200 feet from the ParkTech
Block, on the far west end of WestWorld and sits in the middle of
a small talus field. Although there is only 4 problems on this rock
it shouldn't be missed. Steep face climbing on sweet rock!
- West End Tavern (V-2): ** Just right
of the little tree and work straight up.
- Sloppy Seconds (V-5): ** Go up #3
stem left, use palms.
- A Decent Interval (V-4): * Center of the
face. Undercling right low, left hand
high. Match, dyno to the top
- Moral Dilemma (V-3): ** Start about 4
feet right of the little tree and work up
and right around the prow and mantle
End Rock topo
Colton on Moral Dilemma V-3
Chips Are Down V9
Rock, just right of Sheep Thrills V4. Right hand pocket - left to
the index-finger down crack - right to the sloper-dish and then
go-again to the "jug" (really just a good edge). BTW - Same shitty
low feet. When I hit the jug (all four points off) my body swung
out right. At the apex of the swing I was about to peel but I got
my left hand on and stuck it. Then you campus up the ramp to the
right - find some feet - reach up over the top to the arÍte and
mantle down on with the left. Colin Lantz, 10/2/00.
on When The Chips Are Down V9
|John C. on
Left Side V-4, VIA
Varied climbing. Short approach but still
somewhat secluded. Classic stone. Cool
on hot days. River nearby to cool off in.
You have to cross the river to get there.
Not many problems yet. Only a few problems
per rock. Some of the problems are high and
dangerous. No trails and some steep loose
ground to negotiate.