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USOUTDOOR.com
WestWorld  Park Tech area
John Colton on Truth V-4, Truth Block
Truth V-5
 
These hidden choice chunks of slightly overhanging, Fountain formations are scattered around the SW end of West World. Overlooked until recently, the Park Tech Boulders, are a welcomed addition to the area. The problems range from 10 feet high power problems to 20 feet tall airy highballs. Don't forget your pads and spotters!!

  Getting There:
Truth and Germ Free Adolesence
Truth Area, West World
 The West World is on the hillside west of the West Ridge in Eldorado Canyon State Park. Eight miles south west of Boulder, Colorado. Drive .5 miles into the Eldorado Canyon State Park. You'll pass the Milton rock, which sits right on the road. Continue a 150 feet to two small parking areas on the right. Park. Cross the river at the first small parking area and hike left less then 100 feet to go to the ParkTech. VIA is 75 feet right across the talus field from the ParkTech. A faint trail leads right from the river down a slippery ramp to Truth and Low Tide Blocks. You can also cross the river just east of the Milton rock. If the river is too high to cross. Park in the main area down low and cross the bridge and hike west along the CreekSide Trail until it dead ends at the stream. Scramble around the toe of the West Ridge and then either follow faint trails left along the river or hike up a couple of hundred feet to the West Ridge Traverse and go off left along a faint trail to Germ Free Adolescence then drop down from there.


The Climbing
Park Tech OverView
Park Tech Area overview

 The climbing here takes place on very solid maroon rock akin to the water-polished faces on the Gill and Milton boulders on the south side of the river or up the road. Footholds are sparse, so technique is at a premium, as is crimp strength and a working knowledge of good body English.




Low Tide Block
 Directly below the Truth Block and right next to the river, the Low Tide Block currently offers 3 short problems hidden in the trees. The Left Side V-3 starts off the block and works right via sidepulls and then straight up. The SW Corner V-1 is short and straight forward. Work your way up obvious holds. The SE Slab V-1 rounds over the bulge on the back side of the rock next to the river. There is potential for a few more lines.

John Colton on Left Side V-3 on Low Tide Block
Left Side V-3

Paul on the first ascent of Dare V-3
Paul on the f.a. of Dare V-3

Nice Move V-2
Nice Move V-2

Truth Block
  Across the river from Milton rock and 100 feet below Germ Free Adolescence, the Truth Block was long overlooked. You'll find steep classic Eldo. sandstone with slab finishes. Eric Lunn first unearthed Truth V5 and also added a sit start. Eric Johnson did Nice Move V2. Paul Lembeck climbed the highball Dare V3.

1. Truth (V-5): ** Sit Start. Center of the SE
   face. Work up edges to a side pull at lip.
   Go up and right.
2. Nice Move (V-2): Start left of Truth.
   Left hand on the horn. Match at the lip
   and go right to Truth.
3. Dare (V-3): ** Start at #2 and go left
   past horn, over the drop-off, to edge in
   the scoop. Highball!
4. Truth Or Dare (V-3):** Start left and
   below #3 15 feet. Work over tiers go left.
5. Truth Traverse (V-5):Start at #2, go right.

The High Spire
 The High Spire (AKA) Stratosphere Rock is up the hill and behind the Gern Free Boulder. Mind Boggle Boulder is next to the west side. Although there is only 5 problems on this rock it shouldn't be missed. Steep thin face climbing and a highball crack on the south face. The descent is off the back side.

  1. Squealer (V-4): * Angle up and left on edges.
  2. UnNamed (V-5): Start a few feet right of
    Squealer, then angle up and right.
  3. 3 Beers (V-4): * Start on the SW corner
    and angle up and left.
  4. 2 Beers (V-3): ** Start on the SW corner and work straight up to a pouch below the right angling crack, then straight up via small edges.
  5. Stratosfear (V-2): * HighBall! Start on the SW corner and work up to the crack, then angle right and pull over.
High Spire Rock, West Side
Kevin Murphy on UnNamed V5

High Spire Rock, South Side
Colin Lantz sends 2 Beers V-3

Kevin O'Brien on Viral Infested Adulthood V-1
Kevin O. on VIA V-1

Viral Infested Adulthood (VIA)
 Is a fun hidden slab 75 feet right of the ParkTech Block across the small talus field. VIA V-1 goes up the center of the south face and starts at the cluster of trees. The crux is down low. Just left of VIA, Paul's Face V-2 works up through edges and sidepulls. The Left Side V-4 follows the left arete via edges and a heel lock to a step off left.

 

Park Tech Block
Kevin O' on ParkTech1 V-6, ParkTech Block
ParkTech1 V-5

ParkTech Block
ParkTech topo

  50 feet from the river and having a good landing, this 10-foot high erratic offers more than what is first apparent. If your fingertips are up for the challenge throw yourself at ParkTech1 or the variations.

  1. Left Side (V-4): Sit Start at the
    horizontal rail left of the tree.
    Reach right, go left.
  2. Tone's Warm Up (V-2): Sit Start at
    the obvious horizontal rail left of the
    tree go right up the crack.
  3. ParkTech1 (V-5):** Start matching on
    the small left-facing dihedral and work
    up and left with either hand to the
    hueco at the lip and over.
    Variation (V-5): Do the normal start
    but grab a small edge right of the
    hueco then go left and over.
    Variation (V-6): Do the normal start,
    work right on edges a few feet
    then pull over.

West End Rock
 The West End Rock is up the hill 200 feet from the ParkTech Block, on the far west end of WestWorld and sits in the middle of a small talus field. Although there is only 4 problems on this rock it shouldn't be missed. Steep face climbing on sweet rock!

  1. West End Tavern (V-2): ** Just right
    of the little tree and work straight up.
  2. Sloppy Seconds (V-5): ** Go up #3
    stem left, use palms.
  3. A Decent Interval (V-4): * Center of the
    face. Undercling right low, left hand
    high. Match, dyno to the top
  4. Moral Dilemma (V-3): ** Start about 4
    feet right of the little tree and work up
    and right around the prow and mantle
    over.
West End Rock topo
West End Rock topo

John Colton of the first ascent of Moral Dilemma V-3, West End Rock, WestWorld
John Colton on Moral Dilemma V-3

When The Chips Are Down V9
  Roofus Rock, just right of Sheep Thrills V4. Right hand pocket - left to the index-finger down crack - right to the sloper-dish and then go-again to the "jug" (really just a good edge). BTW - Same shitty low feet. When I hit the jug (all four points off) my body swung out right. At the apex of the swing I was about to peel but I got my left hand on and stuck it. Then you campus up the ramp to the right - find some feet - reach up over the top to the arÍte and mantle down on with the left. Colin Lantz, 10/2/00.

Colin Lantz working When The Chips Are Down V9, WestWorld, Eldo.
Colin on When The Chips Are Down V9

john Colton on  the first ascent of Left Side V-4, VIA
John C. on Left Side V-4, VIA
Pros:
Varied climbing. Short approach but still
somewhat secluded. Classic stone. Cool
on hot days. River nearby to cool off in.
Cons:
You have to cross the river to get there.
Not many problems yet. Only a few problems
per rock. Some of the problems are high and
dangerous. No trails and some steep loose
ground to negotiate.

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