These choice chunks of slightly overhanging, Fountain formations
are easy to miss, as they are hidden in plain view on rolling hills just
west of Cadillac Crag.
Egg looking south
These rocks have seen many visitors over the years but
little concerted development, perhaps due to their isolated position high
on the north side of upper Eldo, far from the popular Redgarden and Bastille
access for this area is from the Eldorado Canyon Trail in the back of Eldorado
Canyon State Park. Eight miles south west of Boulder,Colorado.
Drive into the back of Eldorado
Canyon State Park cross over the bridge, make a quick left and drive down
the road to the ranger shack and park.
north up the hill, cross a dirt road, and continue up the Eldorado canyon
trail for 8 to 10 minutes until 2 smallish, round rocks appear on your
left about 75 feet off the trail. These
are the Starting Blocks, home of the Pony Keg. Hike between the Starting
Blocks and go down into the North Draw and follow a faint trail right
5 minutes to the Sinus Block. Continue up the hill to the shoulder, go
right, step over 5 or 6 dead trees, angle down and right into the valley
then up a hill to the East Egg. Continue north 100 yards to the Musical
Boulder and the other stuff.
Click to view Rincon Google map.
|Pony Keg, Center route V-4
The climbing here takes place on very solid maroon rock akin
to the water-polished faces on the Gill and Milton boulders lower down in
the canyon. Footholds are sparse, so technique is at a premium, as is crimp
strength and a working knowledge of good body English. Some of the problems are super highball!
These long-overlooked 15-feet high, blocks
offers a surprising collection of problems on
good stone. Reminiscent of the Beer Barrel on
Flagstaff, the Pony Keg sports some of the
best new moderates in the area.
The Lower Starting Block has a left
prow slab, a good south side traverse (V-5): start left of the southwest
prow, go right, low foothold off. Cross through the big hueco, and
continue right through a groove. And other stuff.
1. Right Side (V-?): Many combinations.
2. Woody's Pebble (V-3): Standing start on good edges,left hand to
pebble. Keep feet left of obvious crack.
3. Northwest Corner (V-6): Start at the large crystal on the northwest
corner. Go up and right on edges.
4. High Traverse (V-5): Start on the right side of the north face
where all the cracks come together, take crack to the lip. Traverse
past mantle on Center route a few feet, then up.
5. Center route (V-4): Left hand in the good incut head height, right
hand 3 feet off right. Right to smear at lip. Match, Mantle.
6. Left of Center (V-5): A beautiful line. Right hand in the good
incut head height. left hand up and left 1 foot. Right hand to lip
smear. Finish same as Center route.
7. Pony Keg Traverse (V-8/9): Traverse the rock from right to left
through huecos, edges and horizontal cracks. Finish with #8.
8. Left Side (V-2): Start on rail on left side of north face, squirm
|JB. on The
Sinus Block Traverse
Even though its as big
as a house, there isn't much to date on the Sinus Block.
There's a traverse that starts at the tree and stays in the crack. The harder
finish down low in huecos makes for a good V-2 traverse. Right of the tree
is a V-0. A few Highballs potentially with some cleaning. The center makes
for good campusing.
on Tone's Variation V-3
20-foot high erratic offers a handful of sunny high warm-ups on its
west side, and a handful of great boulder problems on the east side.
- Southern Prow (V-0): Start at left side of east face, go up
obvious ramp 20 feet. Highball!
- The Walrus (V-4): 10 feet right of the Southern Prow is a small
side pull for the right hand. Go up and left on edges. A beautiful
- Eggman (V-3): Start at the rock at the base of the east face.
Left hand on the broken crystal cobble, go up past big hold then
- Tone's Variation (V-3): Go up The Eggman to the big hold then
- Steak Knife (V-3): 3 feet right of The Eggman up sharp edges.
- Right Side (V-0): Right hand on hueco. Up and left.
This was one of the first
boulders to be developed and offers technical slab climbing and
some funky overhanging crack climbing on sweet rock.
- Southwest Crack (V-5): Start low off left in a hueco go up and
right to the wide crack.
- Left of Downclimb (V-2): Obvious steep slab left of downclimb,
tend right at the top..
- Original Line (V-0): Initial line up east side.
- Discontinuous Cracks (V-2): Thin discontinuous cracks, start
right of the hueco chest height
- Bob's Day Off (V-3): Between #4 and #6.
- Far Right Side (V-2): At a small pile of rocks, just left of
a tree. Work up and right, then back left to a rail at the top.
- Huecos (V-0): North west side. Start atop boulder, go up easy
The Soundwave Traverse, though quite low to the ground, has perfect rock
and a perfect landing. The moves feature fun cross-throughs to huecos, fins
and pockets. Start right and finish left around the corner for a bonus pump.
Originally rated B 5.11, this traverse is probably more like V-2 or V-3.
A great place to warm up!