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Rincon Boulders
East Egg in the Rincon Boulders
East Egg looking south
These choice chunks of slightly overhanging, Fountain formations are easy to miss, as they are hidden in plain view on rolling hills just west of Cadillac Crag.

These rocks have seen many visitors over the years but little concerted development, perhaps due to their isolated position high on the north side of upper Eldo, far from the popular Redgarden and Bastille formations.

Getting There:
Looking at the Rincon Boulders from the Cloud 9 trail
Rincon Boulders
The access for this area is from the Eldorado Canyon Trail in the back of Eldorado Canyon State Park. Eight miles south west of Boulder,Colorado.

Drive into the back of Eldorado Canyon State Park cross over the bridge, make a quick left and drive down the road to the ranger shack and park.

Hike north up the hill, cross a dirt road, and continue up the Eldorado canyon trail for 8 to 10 minutes until 2 smallish, round rocks appear on your left about 75 feet off the trail. These are the Starting Blocks, home of the Pony Keg. Hike between the Starting Blocks and go down into the North Draw and follow a faint trail right 5 minutes to the Sinus Block. Continue up the hill to the shoulder, go right, step over 5 or 6 dead trees, angle down and right into the valley then up a hill to the East Egg. Continue north 100 yards to the Musical Boulder and the other stuff.
Click to view Rincon Google map
.


The Climbing
Center route V-4 on the Pony Keg
Pony Keg, Center route V-4

The climbing here takes place on very solid maroon rock akin to the water-polished faces on the Gill and Milton boulders lower down in the canyon. Footholds are sparse, so technique is at a premium, as is crimp strength and a working knowledge of good body English. Some of the problems are super highball!




Starting Blocks
These long-overlooked 15-feet high, blocks
offers a surprising collection of problems on
good stone. Reminiscent of the Beer Barrel on
Flagstaff, the Pony Keg sports some of the
best new moderates in the area.
The Lower Starting Block
has a left prow slab, a good south side traverse (V-5): start left of the southwest prow, go right, low foothold off. Cross through the big hueco, and continue right through a groove. And other stuff.
The Starting Blocks, home of the Pony Keg
The Starting Blocks

Pony Keg Map
Pony Keg Map

Woody on the first ascent
Woody's Pebble V-3

Pony Keg
1. Right Side (V-?): Many combinations.
2. Woody's Pebble (V-3): Standing start on good edges,left hand to pebble. Keep feet left of obvious crack.
3. Northwest Corner (V-6): Start at the large crystal on the northwest corner. Go up and right on edges.
4. High Traverse (V-5): Start on the right side of the north face where all the cracks come together, take crack to the lip. Traverse past mantle on Center route a few feet, then up.
5. Center route (V-4): Left hand in the good incut head height, right hand 3 feet off right. Right to smear at lip. Match, Mantle.
6. Left of Center (V-5): A beautiful line. Right hand in the good incut head height. left hand up and left 1 foot. Right hand to lip smear. Finish same as Center route.
7. Pony Keg Traverse (V-8/9): Traverse the rock from right to left through huecos, edges and horizontal cracks. Finish with #8.
8. Left Side (V-2): Start on rail on left side of north face, squirm off left.

John Baldwin finishing low on the huecos.
JB. on The Sinus Block Traverse
Sinus Block

Even though its as big as a house, there isn't much to date on the Sinus Block. There's a traverse that starts at the tree and stays in the crack. The harder finish down low in huecos makes for a good V-2 traverse. Right of the tree is a V-0. A few Highballs potentially with some cleaning. The center makes for good campusing.

 

East Egg
East Egg, east side
East Egg

M.S. on Tone's Variation of the Eggman V-3
MS. on Tone's Variation V-3

This 20-foot high erratic offers a handful of sunny high warm-ups on its west side, and a handful of great boulder problems on the east side.
  1. Southern Prow (V-0): Start at left side of east face, go up obvious ramp 20 feet. Highball!
  2. The Walrus (V-4): 10 feet right of the Southern Prow is a small side pull for the right hand. Go up and left on edges. A beautiful line!
  3. Eggman (V-3): Start at the rock at the base of the east face. Left hand on the broken crystal cobble, go up past big hold then slightly right.
  4. Tone's Variation (V-3): Go up The Eggman to the big hold then go left.
  5. Steak Knife (V-3): 3 feet right of The Eggman up sharp edges.
  6. Right Side (V-0): Right hand on hueco. Up and left.

Musical Boulder
This was one of the first boulders to be developed and offers technical slab climbing and some funky overhanging crack climbing on sweet rock.

  1. Southwest Crack (V-5): Start low off left in a hueco go up and right to the wide crack.
  2. Left of Downclimb (V-2): Obvious steep slab left of downclimb, tend right at the top..
  3. Original Line (V-0): Initial line up east side.
  4. Discontinuous Cracks (V-2): Thin discontinuous cracks, start right of the hueco chest height
  5. Bob's Day Off (V-3): Between #4 and #6.
  6. Far Right Side (V-2): At a small pile of rocks, just left of a tree. Work up and right, then back left to a rail at the top.
  7. Huecos (V-0): North west side. Start atop boulder, go up easy huecos. Highball!
East face of the Musical Boulder
Musical Boulder,east side

Bob's Day Off
Bob's Day Off

Soundwave Traverse goes around the corner to the left then up past the rail
Soundwave traverse V-3
Sound Wave
The Soundwave Traverse, though quite low to the ground, has perfect rock and a perfect landing. The moves feature fun cross-throughs to huecos, fins and pockets. Start right and finish left around the corner for a bonus pump. Originally rated B 5.11, this traverse is probably more like V-2 or V-3. A great place to warm up!

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