Video of the Day
Creek Canyon mile
Samet on Il Precario V6
Giant Steps Right
First, a note on scale
The problems tend to be big. More than big, they are fresh. That
is, lots of new and yet to be developed stuff. But fresh also means raw
--dirty in places, down right dubious in others. If adventure ain't your
game, better to wait for things to get picked over. And a similar observation
applies to grades. Many of the problems have only been done a few times,
or even once. Thus, ratings are ballpark at best--slash grades represent
this predicament. Whatever else is the case, the rock is really cool and
very climbable. Check it out. Don't forget your pads and spotters!!
|Speed Zoo V5, Giant Steps Left
From the intersection
of Highways 93, 58 and 6 in Golden, head west up Highway 6 into the canyon.
About three miles up park on the left at a pullout at exactly mile marker
268.00. This is a little ways before Little Eiger. The gully with the boulders
is across the road from the large parking area.
Follow a faint trail into the gully (not up the left-hand hillside).
Meander up gully (left at first then across to right side above big perched
boulder) for about five minutes to a monster block with a tree on the downhill
side. This is the Mavericks boulder.
| Scott Rennak working Mavericks V6
The climbing is remarkably varied, with
everything from steep jugs to thin faces. Notable features are the occasional
pockets and ubiquitous wavy slopers. In general, the bouldering is harder
than it looks and the rock more solid than it appears--after some cleaning.
That said, the stone varies from as-good-as-it-gets river polish, to choss
of the never-ending onion variety.
V6 is the absolute five star line of the area. It can be done direct
or from right and low. A couple variations come in from the left,
including, The Plunge V5.
2. The Poise AKA Joe's Huck V?, unfinished dyno from bad holds to
3. The Tube V4/5 traverse from low holds on the SW corner, across
seam at the top of the tube, exit at obvious break.. A direct version
V7 rises out of the sloper jams above the menacing block.
4. Shore Break V4 surfs up and right from the two-handed jug low
on the SW corner and tops high.
5. 41st Street V7/8 is the killer line up the south face. From underclings
pull past slopers and pinches to obvious exit.
Big roof behind Mavericks block will have some problems.
block and Bob rock
Continuing up the gully, the next problems are on the sharply-angled
block just above Mavericks 50 feet.
- Bob is a Man V3 snaps
up the thin
features on the north face.
- A V2 problem cruises
Samet on the left Illness boulder
J. on Bacterial V5
1. Viral V3 From
two-handed jug low and
up gully just on its left side for several hundred feet. Then head
a little left and up to avoid steepest section of gully. Cross back
into the gully just below obvious big trees in center of gully.
Up and right are the Illness or Middle Boulders. The inside faces
of these have several problems. The left one has good jug hauls
and hard prospects, especially on the gully side. The right-hand
boulder has several lines.
right, crank to edges and directly up.
2. Bacterial V5 From same start bust left
on an angle past thin edges.
3. Continue traverse from Bacterial's crux
4. Another little number campuses from
obvious jugs on low left and up.
Head up gully from Illness and you will soon see the Giant Steps
on your right. These are huge boulders with stellar problems and
more potential. Giant Steps Left is just right of an overhanging
boulder with a vision-line up its center.
- Slaves of Truth V1/2
Inside face with pockets.
- Masters of Irony V4/5
The prow immediately right of Slaves.
- Speed Zoo V4 Just right
starting up underclings and directly
up to big sloper.
- The Moose V4/5 From the
same start continue right and up to horn/sloper,
wing it to the handlebar.
- More yet to be done on
Giant Steps Right
- V5/6 Thin face.
- Star Drive is the fun
dihedral with the enigmatic bolt at the top.
- Roly-poly V5 Killer big,
with thin start.
- La Fissura V1 Middle dihedral.
- Il Precario V6 Thin face to the
- Down With People V4 The prow line
has a significant
- Up With People V8 Shoulder-busting
Samet on Roly-poly V5
Bo on Il Precario V6
|Scott R. on Gully V5
Giant Steps Left in the gully is a clean and smooth roof with sds, V5
first done by Pete Zoller. Start down left in the wide crack and heelhook
and traverse via good edges then round over the prow. An easier start
uses a heellock off left to negotiate the starting moves. A standing start
avoiding the low traverse goes at V3. A more direct sds start is undone.
up the gully you will enter a little aspen grove. At the start of
the grove in the center of the valley is the Aspen Grove Boulder
More possibilities on this block and several easy and short problems
on adjacent boulder. Lots of possibilities throughout the aspen grove.
- V4 Left-side front face from low holds through slopers to layaway.
- V3 Center, right.
- V2 Right.
From the Aspen
Grove Boulder, walk up gully through grove and boulders for several hundred
yards. As the gully pinches off into a maze of thickets, head over to
the right-hand hillside and traverse this up parallel to the gully. A
big crag comes in to view on the left. Follow the faint trail until you
are about even with the uphill side of the crag and then drop back into
the gully. Just up from the Cave Boulder you will come upon the well-hidden
Banjo Boulder sitting in a micro meadow with pretty flowers and animal
bones. Just above here in the gully is a freaky abandoned encampment.
Up on the left-hand hillside from this is the "Yosemite Boulder," which
has an obvious but languishing thin face line. Many mini-cliffs of variable
quality on the right-hand hillside.
The next and last developed stone is the Banjos Boulder--a really
big boulder with a sandy landing in a fantastic setting. Worth the
hike, but probably shady in winter. From the left:
- Unfinished HighBall up arete.
- Eric's Line V3 go up obvious crack,
left at roof to jug over lip, back to crack.
- Crack V0
- SandCastle V8 starts low right from obvious sds and traverses
almost to crack, where it then bust up through crimps and slopers
to finish at slots right of crack.
- Banjos V6/7 starts same as SandCastle but pops over roof about
midway at obvious break and then surfs left to finish out crack.
- Rufus' Wonder Move V4 starts from same sds but after a move
or so bust out over lip and back right into the incipient dihedral.
- Diabolical Conventionality V1/2 is the central weakness/dihedral.
- Courtesy V2/3 is the highball up the center-right of wall.
- Sympathy V3 starts up right-side crack and finishes up direct
- Taste V4 Starts same as previous route but stays in right-arching
J. on Rufus' Wonder Move V4
Christmas 2001 in Clear Creek:
Jade sends rad line left of Mavericks its called, Northshore
Mike Auldridge sends long-standing dyno proj. on same side of boulder
we think its called; Tsunami V?
Joel Gilmore puts down Stanley Kubrik V10+ on the gully-side of
beta by Greg Johnson
On the back side of the West Illness Boulder (the opposite
side of Rhino V10), is Standley Kubrick V11. It starts just before
you go out the first lip, on a right hand crimper and a left hand
flat side pull, you then pull your feet off the ground and slap the
next crimper just above the first right hand start crimp, and then
go to the top from there. And you also have Standley Kubrick sds V12.
You start way under the roof on a bad under cling then fire out on
the roof on some crimps to the start of Standly Kubrick V11, and finish
beta by Wade David.
(L) on Roly-poly V5,
Matt Samet (R) on La Fissura V1
Giant Steps Right
This is a HighBall zone. Problems tend to
be over twelve feet--sometimes over 20 feet.
Most of the problems are very new, and have
seen very little traffic.
This is a Highball zone. The boulders are
spread out up and down the gully.
This is Clear Creek, which means you will
encounter everything from lost gamblers and
hoboes to mountain lions and rattlesnakes.
Faint trails and some steep loose ground.