FRB: You are very well known in the climbing
some folks might
not have heard of you. Who is
I'm a climber from Maine who studies engineering at the University of
FRB: How did you get into climbing Luke?
I started climbing at the local gym in Portland and eventually started
going outside whenever I could.
FRB: Who were some of your early mentors?
Luke: The manager of the Maine
Rock Gym, Nate Kimble, was always influential during my early years
of climbing and even now. He's the kind of guy that won't let you get
away with being a pussy and that made me try harder. Erik Mushial was
the best climber I knew of at that time so watching him climb was a
good learning experience. He taught me the art of clever beta.
FRB: Who were some of your early climbing partners?
Luke: David Graham started climbing
soon after I did so he was my main climbing partner for about 5 or 6
years. My friends Tom Moulin and Joe Roop were also some climbing partners
that I now miss.
FRB: Who are you sponsored by?
Luke: Sterling Rope Company,
Prana, Petzl, Five-Ten.
FRB: What else do you like to do besides climb?
Luke: I study a shit-load; it
never stops. I also love skateboarding. I've been trying to ride everyday
of the week lately but all this snow wasn't in my contract when I moved
FRB: What are some of your favorite moments in
Luke: I miss climbing at Rumney.
I feel like I developed most of my skill there and had the most fun
out of any other climbing area.
FRB: Have you done any first ascents?
Luke: Not very many. I always
feel like I need to do the established routes or problems before I move
on to the undone. I put up a 13d at Rumney and a few V10ish things here
FRB: Do you have any 'heroes' in climbing?
Yes, but lately I've been more impressed with the people doing alpine
stuff. Anyone who does long free routes is impressive.
FRB: What do you think of enhancing, chipping and
Luke: I'm into gluing for reinforcement
if it's done neatly. Chipping and enhancing is lame but there seems
to be a very fine line between cleaning and chipping.
FRB: What brings you to Boulder, Colorado?
Luke: The school, the sun, the
rock, the girls.
FRB: Who makes the best bouldering pads?
been seeing some nice pads out there lately. Metolius and Cordless all
do the trick nicely.
FRB: Is one chalk better than another?
Luke: Yes, it is common knowledge
that Metolius Super Chalk is the best.
FRB: What competitions have you won?
Luke: I used to win a lot of JCCA
comps back in the day. Now I've been doing some bouldering comps in
Boulder and winning some of those. I would love to do better in the
PCA comps. The level of competition in the PCA is just incredible.
FRB: What makes for a good competition route
in your opinion?
Luke: I think comps problems
should also be visually appealing. The shape, color and arrangement
of the holds is very important for making a problem more artistic. The
problems that don't look nice are usually uninteresting to watch and
climb like crap.
FRB: Where are some of your favorite places
Luke: I like climbing around
Boulder because everything is so close. Chaos Canyon is no more than
two hours with the hike and is probably my favorite right now. Back
home in Maine, Rumney was 3 hours away. That got old quick.
FRB: What hard problems have you sent
in the Front
Luke: Last year I sent Nothing
But Sunshine V14 in the park by Dave Graham. That problem has all the
elements for the perfect problem. I also did the Eternia Roof V13.
FRB: What are some things you don't like about
the Front Range
Luke: Not very much. I love the huge cast of characters
around here. It makes things much more interesting. It does seem that
the traditional climber types generally look down upon sport climbers
and boulderers around here.
FRB: What are some of your favorite climbing websites?
Luke: www.nadventure.com, 8a.nu, climbxmedia.
FRB: What direction or trend would you like to
see in climbing?
Luke: I would like to see more
climbing companies contributing to the advancement of the sport. Better
sponsorship deals and cheaper equipment would produce stronger climbers
FRB: Do you have any projects right now?
Luke: Lately I've been concentrating
on getting strong for indoor climbing. Its easier to juggle plastic
climbing and my studies than it is to stay strong for rock.
FRB: Any words of wisdom on how to climb hard?
a lot but also find something that contrasts with climbing: school,
a girl friend, skateboarding, etc.
FRB: Do you ever hit a plateau in your climbing?
How do you overcome
Luke: Find new people to climb
with that will push you more.
FRB: Any words of wisdom you can give to someone
Luke: Sample as many of the different
climbing types as possible. Find the ones' that fit your lifestyle the
FRB: Thanks for the interview Luke?
Luke: Thank you. I was very glad
to answer your questions.