your full name for the record.
Adrian Montalva. My mom just told me a few years ago; my real middle
name is Donut.
FRB: Do you solemnly swear to tell the truth, the whole truth, and
nothing but the truth?
try not to swear, but I will tell the truth.
FRB: Where did you grow up?
Marcelo: Houston/Katy, Texas
until 1994. I have been in the Denver area since.
FRB: Were you a geek-dork in high school, or an ultra-cool guy?
Marcelo: Yes, but I was living
FRB: Where and when did you start climbing?
Marcelo: My brother says he
taught me to climb out of my playpen when I was little. It has always
been an escape to go climbing. I started rock climbing and learning
rope skills on an artificial wall when I was 12 in 1988 at a summer
camp, Kooch-I-Ching in International Falls, MN. Thank you Mike Black.
This led to adventures in the Black Hills, Wyoming, and Canada.
FRB: Do you still revisit your initial stomping grounds to climb?
Marcelo: I have been back to
instruct at the camp. I started bouldering at Morrison where I return
to get stomped whenever I go.
FRB: Do you think climbing has helped shape your character?
FRB: Who's in your main crew of climbing friends?
Marcelo: Oh man, I would put everyone
I have ever climbed with in this category. Everyone I know has contributed
to the climbing community as I know it. These people would all have
more to tell in interviews ahead of anything I could probably say. I
will start by saying I am sorry I did not enter that name, but I already
ran out of room. Fi, The Conductor (of the ladies) (Justin), Chuff-Phillips
(Chip), Stick and Send Marvez, A-hole(Adam), Alex and Chris, Blends
with Sky (TJ), Runs with Cantaloupes(Sean), Chuck- Nuts, Ben S., Petty
Theft (Rob), Man Kyle, Dudeman, Dudebro, Dan, Jim, Manbro, mandude,
F-Word (Tommy), Jen (Yeah Jen), Jon and Heather, Rocketman (Trevor),
The Pavols, The Krugmans, Hickey (Yeah!), Joel Gillmore, Noah, Jade
(Yeah!), Calvin, Anette and Rob, Colby, Micah, Eric, Justin and Kai
G., Joel and the Wyoming crew, Greg Johnson (found my madness), Sean
and Adie, Brandon and Clint, Justin Mag, Jeff C., Chris Simmons, Wade,
Jamie, Mark, Mike A., Brian C. , Christian, Meghan P., Dan Miller, Corey
D., All of the Paradise family and friends, Greg & Kristi Floyd and
all of the Bent Gate employees, Chris, Aaron, all the R&J crew, Tony
Symanovich, Dustin S., Chad Mc., Trey Tull, Schutt, campers and staff
of Kooch, and anyone I see out climbing while I am out there.
FRB: What's it like having a long-term girlfriend who climbs?
FRB: Does she toast you on some boulder problems?
Marcelo: No, she does not drink.
FRB: If you could climb with anyone for a day-not
any of your friends or Fiona because
a nice guy and probably would say
jewelry radio add guy is not my friend. I can not stand those commercials.
I would go to Morrison and sandbag all day.
FRB: So, I heard you used to be a proficient builderer.
elaborate on any particular twists in
used to builder quite a bit. Once I got up almost to the top of this
one problem, and my hold broke while I was shaking out. A famous climber
once said, "Holds break no matter how strong you climb." Joel Lee Gilmore
was spotting me about 35 feet below. Thanks for saving my life. He thought
I was going to splat, but I landed as softly as I could and still shattered
both calcaneous bones. It is always hard to take time off climbing,
but I had some time to learn wheelchair tricks and think about what
I had done. A loving group of friends and family helped keep me from
getting any crazier during downtime. That was key beta; I would like
to thank everyone I know. There are still some gorgeous lines to be
done in town. There are plenty of things that look like they should
be sent. Low, bouldery buildings are still good to go, and the yellow
blocks on I-25 and Broadway still look fun.
FRB: Do you have any latent fears, e.g. spiders, murky water, heights,
small spaces, obesity, balding?
Marcelo: If you know anyone that has hidden and tried
to jump out and scare me you would know it is a definite maybe… There
is no giant foot about to squash me… I will get vertigo sometimes when
I am up high. And when I swim outdoors, I kind of get sketched about
alligators and sharks. Oh yeah, I am not thrilled about the idea of
being drowned in a cage. I am less scared of falling than I am of landing.
Helicopters freak me out big time!
FRB: Any vices?
would like to say, "No". Sometimes I want to grab things and find out
how much force I can put on whatever and at what angles. I am working
on this, but I occasionally let climbing take precedence a little more
often than I think it should (regularly more than others think it should).
FRB: What's your favorite music to get psyched up?
Marcelo: Loud music, occasionally
with some yelling or rhyming. Mark and Matt have put together an excellent
set of music known as the Climbing Volumes I through IV.
FRB: What's your favorite music to chill and hang out?
Marcelo: Alvin and the Chipmunks
music to Zydeco music I listen and like most all kinds of tunes. Songs
with a nice girl's voice can be REALLY fun to chill with, but on the
other hand so can some good beats.
FRB: Describe your typical diet?
coffee (if I am not going through a quitting phase), not much pop, beer
when it is there and appropriate, frosted shredded mini wheats or granola,
yogurt, cooked steak and ground beef, cooked eggs, cooked bratwurst,
cheese, and a pie or ice cream I like to eat.
FRB: Any favorite movies or books?
are all pretty fun, but since I was littler I have liked 1941. The Bible
is the best book.
FRB: What aspects of climbing do you most enjoy?
enjoy the self-propelling motions in climbing up or down. Sometimes
I will hold onto something, and, without thinking of how poor it is,
I will be able to move this way or that. It makes me feel excited and
scared at the same time. A nice, clean sideways fall that you can roll
out of without permanent damage is always more enjoyable the further
FRB: You're a pretty tall dude. Do you ever
laugh at diminutive
climbers ("Ha, puny midgets
can't reach the
holds…soooo, sorry!, etc.)?
Marcelo: No, I can not really
laugh at anyone's height. I believe taller and shorter climbers co-exist
in a sort of symbiotic community. Sometimes someone shorter might gain
from a taller person reaching to brush high holds. Other times, I have
been blessed to climb with people who are short enough to reach low
starting holds to brush.
FRB: What are some of your favorite, can't-miss climbs
that you would
suggest to a visiting or aspiring climber?
climbers DO NOT get stuck inside! Outside in Colorado is beautiful,
and it is not really that much safer to be in a gym. I think Clear creek
holds some classic lines if you know where to go. If time is an issue,
go to Morrison and ask a local to show you their cool problems. The
Black Hole has good body tension and technical climbs. Middle eliminator.
FRB: What problems have made you dig the deepest
into your motivation
and pure drive to send?
Marcelo: Brearshears in the
black hole took me months of regular Morrison visits to get. In that
time I saw super strong people climbing things that looked inconceivable.
After lots of flappers and sore elbows, it went.
FRB: What are some of your favorite climbing areas?
Hueco Tanks and everywhere else.
FRB: Have you taken any interesting road trips?
Any good stories
of debauchery, strange encounters,
Hueco, Black Hills, Joe's, Big Bend, Wyoming, New Mexico, Central Texas
limestone. I am sorry about most of the other stuff. All evidence remains
under the utmost secrecy.
FRB: Have you visited any foreign climbing areas,
do you plan to?
Marcelo: Yes, and yes. I have
pulled in the Canadian Rockies and a little in Font. I really like the
looks of New Z-land bouldering.
FRB: If you could go anywhere for one week without any
or meddling responsibilities.
Where would it
Marcelo: This sounds like an
advertisement for Las Vegas.
FRB: You seem very connected with the Paradise Gym.
Are you an employee,
or just a resident slacker.
Marcelo: I am a resident slacker,
but I can be found helping out using my Paradise name, 'Odd Job'.
FRB: What are you studying in school?
was studying mechanical engineering. I was interested in biomedical
engineering. When I finish I want to become a massage therapist.
FRB: You also work as a night watchman.
Have you ever
needed to put a beat-down on
or have you ever started to have
delusions from the solitude?
Marcelo: It is a Security Officer
position. I have seen several menacing looking, loitering bunny rabbits.
I was allowed to shine my flashlight at them. I have also learned a
few new boredom games. Mine is more of a "Shinning" due to copyright.
FRB: Having climbed with you a handful of times, you
always used to
wear Sportiva Mantras; a very
shoe. Then, the last time I climbed
with you, you
had switched to Mesas; a very
edging shoe. What would Freud say
about this transition?
would say that the repression of letting myself use the edging shoes
I needed was due to the sexual activity that my brain was subconsciously
playing out. The extensive activity became too much for the flimsy Mantra
and required more support. That's just a guess; I am no hobbit like
Of course lately I have been
using Venoms, Hookers, and Predators. Nothing comes to mind about what
he could possibly relate with those names. I have been getting a great
deal of pleasure out of the new shoes. The comfortable Venoms, the awesome
hooking Predators, and the sticky Hookers all have their advantages.
FRB: Was that a sketchy, disturbing question?
down I am very relieved you asked it. Now I am going to think before
I just get a pair of shoes that heel hook well. It will not even matter
how the hard the sole is.
FRB: Do you have any sponsors or other supporters
you would like to give a shout-out to?
Marcelo: Hi Mom! Hellooo Paradise!
FRB: Finally, a community-service question: do you
have any final
words of wisdom for climbers, new
is OK to take notes on specific problems like how you hold this hold
or that hold. If your term memory is short, you can go back to an area
without having to relearn your beta.
FRB Word Association
Orange: Orange (If you mean the color, I mean the fruit)
(If you mean the fruit, I mean Banana)
Mars: Candy Bars
A freak led by a leash: Sexy party
Imagine: Pretend there is a hold there
Coors: Illegal to climb vertical faces
IFS: If Fiona Sees
Liquid: Bruce Lee movement
Drugs: Whiz Quiz
Zero: Nothing comes to mind
Magnificent: Everyone having a good sending day
High Ball: Shot glass
Paradise: Training in good weather
Front Range: Foothills
Waves: High Ball fun
Brilliance: Bright and shiny
God: Trinity, always knowing everything everywhere
Speed: Quick approach
Sloper: Wife beater (in the Draw)
Bob Ross: Happy Trees
Red Death: Inside out
Bush: One in the hand
FRB: Thank you for the interview, Marcelo.
Marcelo: Thank you for the interview,
you inquisitive inquisitor, you.