FRB: Political affiliation?
How did you get the name, Lord Science?
A long story, sort of. After ten years of graffiti murals, b-boy circles, and
intense DJ battles against friends and foes across the galaxy, I gained the title
'Lord' Science. Its kind of like having a Bachelors Degree of the Arts in Hip
Hop. FRB: Where do you climb
Dave: Mostly Joe's,
Squamish, Flagstaff, Horsetooth, Garden of the Gods, Ute Valley, Independence
Pass, Rifle, I just went to Clear Creek canyon for some bouldering, going to check
the routes out next, I heard they are great.
Who do you climb with in Colorado?
I mostly climb alone or with my girlfriend, Joyee Lau from BC. We take trips whenever
possible. In Vancouver I climb with my friend Big Kev Zenatta, 'The Beefcake,'
The whole Squamton Posse, The PG posse, and my good friends Tyler, Don, and Sarah.
It takes all day to climb in Squamish when you know nearly everyone. In Hong
Kong we go climbing with Stuart Millis and his yellow dog, Indi.
Tell us about the Monument area climbing.
Any sport routes?
is little or no sport in Monument that I know of. There are numerous trad routes
all the way from Mt. Herman to Woodland Park via 4x4 on Rampart Range Road. However
there are some boulders at the base of Mt Herman. The rock was fire damaged and
tends to be a little brittle because of this. All the climbed lines are solid
and anything that looks like it has gone, has, but there are a few boulders still
being projected. Some good edgy problems and some short powerful problems but
there is one great problem way up the hill that someone built a terraced landing
for. Smashing the Skull boulder is a big block with four good lines on an overhanging
face and a few on either side that make it worth the hike. Smashing the Skull
is a stellar V4 that climbs the northeast corner of the big block up on the hill
is the area classic and best climb. Hope you like hiking around and exploring,
that's the only way I found anything. If you are really lucky you just might stumble
upon Glenn working on a new boulder problem he just found.
Who has been developing the climbing
Schuler is the soul of Mt. Herman development. He be puttin' in mad work, yo.
Thanks for putting in the hours Glenn, now I have a spot 5 minutes from my house.FRB:
What are the detailed directions to get to
the climbing/bouldering around Monument?
They can be accessed on Mt
Herman road about 10 minutes from Monument. From the Monument exit 161 take 2nd
Ave west into Monument (the 7-11 is on third, you can head west on this street
also but it doesn't cross the tracks.) After crossing the railroad tracks turn
left onto Mitchell Road heading south. The second street on your right (approx
0.5 miles) is Mt. Herman Road (NF-320). After taking Mt, Herman road, continue
on for about five miles. After the road turns to dirt it forks at Red Rocks Dr,
also known locally as 'The Y'.
your odometer at 'The Y' and continue on the left fork up Mt. Herman
road for approx 1 mile, there will be a pull out on the opposite side of the road,
with two obvious big blocks up hill to your right. Park here and look for faint
trail towards the split boulder, other trails can be picked up from here that
head uphill west and southwest. (4x4 not necessary but not recommended for the
guys with the sick VW GTI.)
What about rock gyms in the Monument area?
There is one gym near Baptist road called Soc n' Roll on Old Denver Hi Way. They have a wall there and occasionally a contest or two. Unfortunately I haven't gone in to check it out?
FRB: What do you recommend for indoor climbing?
I wouldn't recommend climbing indoors at all, unless you are totally trying to hurt yourself from
over-training on tweaky problems. The best indoor climbing gym I have been to is Vertical World in Redmond, WA. Climbing outside is where it's at, I
save the plastic sessions for places where it does nothing but rain for most of the year. Really unless you can set your own problems or attend one of the best gyms in the nation it can be really lame climbing indoors.
FRB: What about the gyms in Colorado Springs?
there is always the Sport Climbing Center off Garden of the Gods Road, but if you are already on route and have a craving for the contrived, I would head for Garden of the Gods for a session at the Snake Pit or the Blowouts, some of the best contrived lines in Colorado, no joke.
What is there to do for night life
in the Monument area, Dave?
We got a bowling alley but I am usually to tired from climbing to pick up a bowling ball, sounds like a great way to mash up your digits! We have four liquor stores in the Monument area, that may or may not improve your night life. Palmer Lake, 6 miles west of Monument on Hwy 105, has some smaller restaurants if you seek some nice dining or if you are really in dire need of some rural socializing try O'Mally's Pub for a beer, that is, if it ever shows up after you order it.
You just came back from climbing in Asia.
Tell us about that.
Asia was awesome! Joyee and I spent a little over ten months on the road with nothing but a backpack and our photo gear. A thee month round trip circuit from Hong Kong around greater China and the rest of the trip was spent throughout southeast Asia. We spent 4 weeks living in Yangshuo, China climbing sick karst-formation limestone. The development there was first done by the legendary Todd Skinner in 1993 and is the most popular climbing destination in all of China. A big surprise came from the climbing community in Hong Kong. Stuart Millis runs hongkongclimbing.com and also wrote the guidebook for Hong Kong. He loves to climb and knows most everyplace to climb in the surrounding areas and if you ask him nicely he may even take you out for a session. Hong Kong is awesome place, has several gyms, and offers affordable gear for your next expedition, that is
What was the highlight of the Asia trip?
if you have money to spend time there. There is a few good places to climb and boulder too, contact Stu if you want to know more about the scene, he has lived there 10 plus years.
We spent 4 weeks in Chiang Mai, Thailand at Crazy Horse Buttress. The climbing there is fun and concentrated to one limestone buttress. Developed by Francis Hayden, Josh Morris, and Khaetthaleeya Uppakham (Kat). They run a complete guide service and climbing shop complete with a backyard wall for you freaky plastic lovers. Check them out at thailandclimbing.com. Thailand was relaxed and very traveler friendly if you can deal with the occasional tourist schemes that apply with most places frequented by travelers. We hung out in Tonsai, Thailand twice for 12 weeks total. Another place that Todd Skinner found in his '93 trip was Tonsai and the Railay climbing areas, now a global climbing mecca. If you don't already know about climbing in Thailand just ask around. Quality climbing and company can be found just before and after the busy season in December, just get out of there by the end of April or you may end up getting rained on more than you and your rotting laundry can handle. Big ups to Wee, Sop, Lek, and the Sawadee crew. Andaman Nature Resort is a cool spot to stay and is relatively monkey free, yes that's right, monkey free.
Aside from the climbing, the geography and the multi-cultures of Asia are reason enough to get out and discover some adventure. We spent a month in Cambodia and a few weeks in Laos, as well. What I learned from all my travels is you can never gain enough global perspective, a priceless experience that everyone should experience.
If you want to check some flicks of our trip or see more of what we are all about check: flickr.com/lordscience and flickr.com/joyeel.
Dave: Traveling through western China from Xining to Kunming, such a diverse region culturally and geographically. China was the most spectacular and challenging place I traveled through.
FRB: What trips do you have planned now, Dave?
BC in March, Joe's in April, and trying to figure out how to get to Europe by this time next year!
What else do you do besides climb, Dave?
I go snow board with my dad, take pictures and shoot video, read books and hang with friends.
FRB: How do you support your climbing lifestyle?
I made a big step this year when I got back from Asia by sponsoring myself. I do freelance illustration and photography. I also paint but it doesn't really support my lifestyle. I'm so good I sponsored myself, yo!
FRB: What are some of your goals
for your climbing career?
To keep climbing and not get injured. I want to hang out with John Gill and talk about some of his climbing philosophies, John Gill is the man.
How do you like to unwind after
a day of climbing?
I usually overdose on protein; I like buffalo burgers an awful lot. I like movies, extra curricular rasta activities, and hanging out with friends and family.
FRB: What do you want to be doing
5 years from now, Dave?
Well I'd like to be climbing, working towards goals that I am passionate about, kicking it with my girl, and thinking about what I will be doing in the next five years after that.
Thanks for the interview, Dave.
No FRB, thank you.