FRB: Ted, when did you first start
Ted: My first time climbing
was in 9th grade when I took a local climbing school class. We spent
the weekend in Eldorado and did the West Ridge and a few topropes. I
also climbed some on the Boulder High School walls and with some high
school buddies who would take me up to the Flatirons. I thought climbing
was great, but at the time I was so involved in bike racing that I didn't
have the time to climb much. Once I started under grad at CU in 1993,
I stopped cycling and climbing evolved into a passion, and I haven't
FRB: Did you grow up in Boulder?
Yes, I think I can say I'm one of the few people who were born, raised
and currently living in Boulder. Having lived in other areas, I've learned
what a great place this area is and it's hard to leave.
FRB: How old are you?
Ted: I'll be turning 30 next
FRB: What type of climbing do you do?
Ted: During the winter I tend
to focus on bouldering and in the summer I climb more routes. While
I enjoy both disciplines and like to mix it up, I think I'm a boulderer
at heart. I have also enjoyed the little trad climbing I've done, which
was primarily on East Coast.
FRB: Do you have any favorite bouldering areas
on the Front
Ted: I like a lot of the local
areas such as Flagstaff, the Flatirons, Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon,
and RMNP. Outside of Colorado, I also like Hueco Tanks, the Gunks and
Lincoln Woods. There are a lot of areas where I haven't been and I'd
like to keep traveling.
FRB: What do you like about climbing?
Half the fun of climbing is being outside in pretty places with good
friends. The other half is pushing myself as hard as I can and, of course,
the movement in climbing. I think I used to climb more for the redpoints,
and now its becoming more of an excuse to get outside and be with my
friends. The sport really helps clear my head and give me energy, which
helps productivity and sanity for other things.
FRB: Who do you climb with?
Ted: In the past year, I've been climbing with my brother
Stan, Dan Levison,
Adam Brink and Theo Merrin. My step-dad Phil also likes to climb some
and provides great support.
FRB: What are some of your favorite bouldering
Ted: I tend to like the lines
that are aesthetic, at my physical limit, safe and posses other indescribable
characteristics that inspire me. Some favorites around the Front Range
include Ghost Dance at the Millennium Boulder; Right Graham Arete in
Boulder Canyon; the Turning Point in the Flatirons; and a lot up at
Flagstaff such as Smith Overhang, Hagan's Wall and Undercling Traverse.
Right now I'm working Pebble Traverse and I really enjoy the delicate
yet very powerful moves, the consistency, and the total challenge involved.
FRB: Are you sponsored?
Ted: Nope, not yet!
FRB: What are your climbing goals?
Ted: I'd like to boulder V11
and climb a 13c or 13d, ideally within the next year. Left Graham Arete
is very inspiring, but at the moment I can't seem to get off the ground.
Most importantly, I'd like to keep having fun, pushing myself, meeting
new people, and traveling to new areas.
FRB: You said you lived on the East Coast,
what did you
think of the bouldering there?
was great! I was very impressed with the quality of climbing in New
York and around Connecticut (where I lived). Some of my best times I've
had bouldering were at the Gunks or Lincoln Woods with my friends from
school. The only problem was that from where I lived, it was a minimum
of 40 minutes driving to the nearest boulders and around a two hour
drive to other areas. The accessibility of climbing around the Front
Range is really unique.
FRB: Have you done much climbing
outside of the
Ted: When I was in the Peace
Corps in Panama, I managed to find some descent looking boulders near
my village, but they turned out to be chossy (and humid) and I broke
off most of the good holds. I got the kids out climbing on some of the
easier boulders, which was a lot of fun. I've done some climbing in
Chile, which has some very good sport climbing (around Santiago), and
some strong climbers.
FRB: Do you think climbers can excel to high levels
such as school and jobs?
Ted: Yes, definitely. I think
it's possible to have a full-time job, school, mortgage, a relationship
or other responsibilities and still climb at the level one would like.
There are a lot of people who work full time and have families and still
climb very hard. In fact, I think one way climbers stay motivated over
the years is because they have other interesting things going on in
FRB: How do you train?
discovered that I climb best when I maximize both my rests and my workouts.
So, I generally like to climb for long sessions), and then rest for
a few days. If I am training for a project or just trying to improve
strength, then I'll climb more often in a week (around 3-4 days), but
if I'm close to a redpoint I'll try to rest, which is usually about
3-4 consecutive days. I'll occasionally use the campus board, but it
seems to lead to shoulder strain very quickly. Probably the best way
to train is to be with a fun, motivating group.
FRB: How do you stay safe while climbing?
starters I never do any kind of free soloing and I try to avoid high
problems. In fact, I've never even soloed the Flatirons just because
I tend to slip even walking around. When climbing routes, I wear a helmet
and my friends and I use a 10-point check before anyone goes up. This
system checks the knot, the harness, the belay devise, helmets and makes
sure a knot is tied at the end of the rope. It only takes about 30 seconds
and offers a complete check.
FRB: What do you think about the new OSMP proposal?
believe protected areas like the Boulder Mountain Parks should find
a balance between recreation and preservation in their management plans.
I don't think the OSMP captures this balance and instead the plan will
greatly limit the amount of space for a lot of users. It could be a
big loss to Boulder climbing. There is actually a City Council Meeting
coming up to talk about this very topic on April 5th at 6:00pm at Broadway
and Canyon. Please come!
FRB: Any parting words before we conclude.
safe and have fun.
FRB: Thanks a lot, Ted.
you Mike, I enjoyed it.