you grew up climbing. What's that like?
I started climbing when I was 11, and haven't stopped since. I guess I really
don't know any other lifestyle. My life has revolved around climbing for so long
that I don't really remember what it was like before. Obviously, I love the way
that I grew up, and I wouldn't change anything. I've done so many amazing things
in my life because of climbing. I have great friends, a wonderful relationship
with my parents, and I've travelled all over the world. I couldn't ask for a better
FRB: You live the climbing lifestyle... What would
you recommend to someone just starting out?
I would tell them that climbing will offer them so many amazing opportunities
and it's a great way to meet people and travel.
What's the downside to the
Emily: It's been
hard for me to juggle school and try to climb hard at the same time. I think it's
important, though, to not let one activity take over my entire life, so I enjoy
having something else (like school) to focus on. Also, being a professional climber
doesn't get you anywhere financially, so that pretty much sucks.
How do you think history will paint you?
I hope I'm remembered as somebody
who worked hard in all aspects of my life and pushed the envelope for women's
climbing. I want to inspire other women (and men) to climb hard outside and compete.
What's a typical day for you, Emily?
I always wake up at around 6:30,
go on a 30 minute run, then I eat breakfast and walk to school. After class at
around 1:00, I usually go to the gym, I lose motivation if I don't go early in
the day, so I try to go right after school. After training, I go home and do homework,
and then I hang out with my parents and my boyfriend (Rob D'Anastasio) and we
go out to eat or make dinner. I go to bed around 9:30. I sometimes think I'm a
boring person, but I'm happy with the way I live, so that's all that counts, right?
FRB: What do you prefer, sport/trad or
bouldering and why?
I prefer sport climbing and I'll
admit that it's because I'm better at it. I have good endurance and I love training
endurance and clipping bolts outside. I lose motivation when I boulder because
I don't like it when I have to work on the same moves over and over again. With
routes, I usually progress pretty fast when I'm working on a project and the experieince
is always new and exciting, but I get impatient when bouldering because I fail
on a move over and over again. I do enjoy trad climbing, but I get scared and
it takes alot of time and preparation, I don't have that much time or motivation
to trad climb right now, but hopefully I will someday.
FRB: How do
you unwind after
typical climbing day?
I do homework, read, and I like to go out to dinner or cook with my parents and
FRB: Who do you look up to in your
I look up to Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell because I think
they're amazing climbers and people.FRB: Favorite partners?
Kelly Rayburn and my dad.
FRB: Favorite indoor
facilities and why?
I like the Spot
for social reasons and the BRC
is good because I can get on a rope, but CATS
is the best for training because it's old school and you can do 100 move problems
on tiny, slimey holds that have been there for years.
trainers and why?
Justen Sjong (my old Jr. team coach)
taught me to love climbing and Robyn Erbesfield taught me how to try hard and
FRB: Favorite bouldering in colorado?
I'm not that psyched on bouldering
outside, but I guess I like RMNP because it's beautiful.FRB: Favorite
bouldering in the world and why?
I went to Magicwood, but I think the Park is still better.
climb 5.14. How did you train up to that
level so quickly? What would suggest to someone
who wants to attain that goal?
I work hard and I take care of myself. It's all about lifestyle: eating right,
getting enough sleep, training even when you're tired but knowing when to take
it easy so you don't get injured. If you want to climb hard, you have to be willing
to sacrifice a little bit. Sometimes it's torturous to go into the gym or go on
a run, but suck it up and do it anyway. You have to have the motivation and the
drive to succeed, that's the most important thing.
FRB: Best roadtrip.
Australia in 2004. I had just graduated high school and couldn't wait to get out.
It was the adventure of a lifetime and I have never learned so much about myself
and others in such a short period of time. I have so many stories to tell and
I will remember all of them for the rest of my life.
FRB: Worse roadtrip.
Australia in 2004. Our van broke
down, bad weather, I found out how homesick I could get... our epics were endless...
but it was still completely worth it.
FRB: What about the other parts
of your life.
do you like to do?
love running (most of the time), reading, and going out to eat. I like to cook
and I'm learning how to play the piano. My favorite TV show is Seinfeld and I've
seen every episode.
FRB: Who knows you best?
would they say about you?
My mom and dad and Rob. They would
all say that I push myself too hard but that's why I'm good at what I do.
In moments of doubt, despair or fear, what
runs through your mind?
I know deep down that the feelings
will not last, that things will get better, and I that it's a part of life to
have bad days. I remind myself that I am extremely lucky and that it's probably
not as bad as I'm making it out to be. Sometimes, however, I'm not so reasonable
and I need to be reminded of all of those things.
FRB: What about
life after climbing. What are
some of your long term goals?
I am graduating from college in
May and then I'm going to travel and climb for a bit. I really haven't thought
past that point very much but I know I want to have a respectable job and eventually
have a family and life that doesn't revolve so much around climbing. First, however,
I want to climb more 5.14s and win some more World Cups.
you're old and gray and in your
chair. How do you think you'll feel
your climbing days? Elaborate please .
I will cherish them and remember
them as some of the best days of my life. I will remember all of my friends and
memories that I have because of climbing and I will be so grateful.
Final words of wisdom to someone embarking
an intense climbing lifestyle?
It's hard work and it sucks sometimes,
but if you want it bad enough, it's worth it so stick it out.FRB: Thanks
for the interview and the opportunity
of getting to know you a litlle more.
No problem, Thank you!