Alyrene Dorey
 early March, 2006

FRB: Full name?

Aly: Alyrene Dorey.

FRB: Age?

Aly: 24.

FRB: Height/weight?

Aly: 5'6" 125 lbs.

FRB: Ape Index?

Aly: 0.

FRB: Political affiliation?

Aly: Registered Libertarian

FRB: You're hard to read...
          tell us a little about yourself.

Aly: No! And don't tell me what to do.

FRB: What are some of the most
          important events in your life?

Aly: Parents divorce, tripping, dropping out of school to go rock climbing, going back to school at Naropa, reading The Second Sex.

FRB: Who has influenced you most
          in your life?

Aly: Gandhi, yer mom, my parents, some teachers and professors, a couple lovers, my friends from high school, Malcolm X., Simone de Beauvoir, Frank Black, Johnny Depp.

FRB: Who are you closest too, Aly?

Aly: A couple of my friends from high school, cuz I can't hide anything from them. I don't really need to anyway.

FRB: Who has influenced you most
          in your climbing? Man/woman?

Aly: Jason Kehl for sure. I've climbed with him more than anybody else since I started, and I think I picked up some of his style. He tries really hard and always has crazy, contorted, gymnastic beta for things.

FRB: What are some of your favorite moments
          in your climbing life?

Aly: Onsighting something. I always try hardest the first time. I think that's why I like onsight comps.

FRB: How would you describe
          your climbing style?

Aly: I'm bad at locking off and rocking my hips over my feet, and I'm a pretty mediocre climber in general. Maybe I'm good at heel hooking. I love slopey stuff: Font, lcc, Squamish, Horse Pens, etc.

FRB: What are some of your interests,
          besides climbing?

Aly: I'm totally obsessed with school. I read, play chess, and listen to music. Last summer I worked as a wedding photographers assistant, that was rad. I would usually cry during the ceremony. Also, I just discovered that I get MTV and I've started watching a couple hours of Room Raiders Texas every morning.

FRB: How would you describe your lifestyle?

Aly: I live in boulder, I'm going to school, and I don't have a job. 20% student, 20%climber, 5% yoga/meditation practitioner, 5% photographer, 5% shopper, 10% activist, 15% drunk. I probably spend the other 20% of my time in Wild Oats and Whole Foods, or thinking about being one of those places.

FRB: Biggest accomplishments
         outside of climbing?

Aly: This one time, in 8th grade, I got a hat trick in a field hockey game.

FRB: Why is Dio your favorite band?

Aly: Largely because Ronnie James Dio was the best singer black Sabbath ever had, and probably the most talented heavy metal musician of all time. My friend Clark introduced me to Dio a few years ago, and since then the song "Holy Diver" has become my mantra. I think it's a good metaphor for my life. Some times I chant it while meditating at Naropa.

FRB: You could be described as a 'quiet person'.
          Why are you so quiet?

Aly: Cuz, I'm shy.

FRB: What are some of your long-term goals?

Aly: Years and years of grad school, job, love, family, emotional stability, old age.

FRB: In your opinion, what skills do you need
          to compete well in climbing?

Aly: Onsighting skills, keeping cool skills, focusing skills, not fucking up skills, crimping skills, heel hooking skills, jump start skills.

FRB: Favorite climbing partners?

Aly: All the girls I climb with in Boulder. There are so many strong people here, it's fucking rad! I think in general the women here are really humble and really motivated.

FRB: You've travelled extensively.
          Tell us about some of your
          favorite climbing trips.

Aly: Squamish this summer, cuz I went with girls. We supported each other, were generous about helping each other finish projects, and generally pretty cooperative. I felt more comfortable asking to be spotted on my projects and I'm not scared to spot girls because they usually don't outweigh me by 40 lbs, like some boys do.

FRB: Do you think that women are more
          competitive then men?
          (questions from Jason Kehl in blue)

Aly: Maybe. I think women have different motivation for being competitive than men do. In western culture, women aren't usually valued for who they are or what they accomplish, but for being cute and charming and making babies. And, what little access we have to resources is usually brokered by men (male gym owners, male magazine editors, male route setters, male filmmakers, male photographers, male company owners, male sponsorship coordinators, male coaches and trainers, etc.), so our 'survival' is dependent upon men. When women are competitive in climbing, it usually has something to do with maintaining our relationships with these men. I notice a difference in my own climbing when I climb with just women, as opposed to climbing with both genders.

FRB: Is it important to succeed on a road trip
          to have a good time?

Aly: Having a good time is way more important. If your life isn't making you happy, you re probably doing something lame and you should stop.

FRB: Favorite position?

Aly: Missionary - boring but reliable.

FRB: What do you think makes a great
          bouldering destination other
          than the climbing?

Aly: Good weather, friends, good food, beautiful scenery, alcohol, drugs, museums, movie theaters, thrift stores. An exotic culture, like El Paso.

FRB: You've climbed in Hueco. Any
          helpful tips for camping in the desert?

Aly: Bring water and sun block. Hang out at the Rock Ranch. Find sun harvest.

FRB: Do you feel that a photograph
         takes away part of your soul?

Aly: Yes.

FRB: Thanks for the interview, Aly.

Aly: You're welcome.

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