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David Chancellor
 mid-late October, 2005   interview by Andy Mann

David Chancellor
David Chancellor David Chancellor David Chancellor David Chancellor


FRB: Davey, last time we talked we were bouldering,
          getting so ill tatoos, and drinking Fat Tire Ales
          together at the Telluride Bluegrass Festival last year,
          how's life been since?

Dave: Busy! Dan and I have been working hard to bring a whole new dimension to So ill holds. We have developed a new line or soft goods which includes a clothing line, crash pads, chalk bags, hangboards and new hold sets. We have updated our current website with all the new product.
Check it: soillholds.com.

FRB: I'm sure your hard at work this summer.
          Have you been escaping work and the
          heat to do any climbing?

Dave: The heat in So iLL is absolutely crippling. Fortunately we have found a few big boy cliffs @ lake Kincaid. We cruise out on a john boat and attempt to destroy the 60 footers. Deep water soloing is amazing. You have complete freedom to get a bit crazy. (don't you know I'm loco?)

FRB: You have basically put Southern Illinios on
          the map as a top bouldering destination.
          After all the years of development do you
          think the rock is taping out, or still expanding?

Dave: Thanks Andy for the props. Its nice to see people taking advantage of our hard work.
It is insane how much rock is down here. The problem is nobody is on the treasure hunt. We have found a few new super dope area's yet they are either on private property or protected national forest. We have spent many hours looking at Topographical map's, renting planes and Arial photos. Its starting to get a bit on the expensive side. Hopefully soon we will have the new found Mother-load. Or maybe I have already found it but I am just not telling you.

FRB: You just got back from Arkansas where you
          were working on Dosage 3 and climbing with
         Chris Sharma, Jason Kehl, and other friends.
          What was that like?

Dave: Climbing with those boys is a very humbling experience. They know how to get physical! Arkansas offers incredible sandstone climbing. Although you have to be jazzed to hike off the beaten trail to develop problems. But for me and the crew that's what climbing is about. Encompassing the whole experience from the finding of new rock, prepping the stone and sending. This is what puts me high up on the cloud nine.

I would like to shout out to horseshoe canyon ranch for hooking us up big time. This place is amazing for rest days.

FRB: Dave, you seem to be getting very strong
          these days. What are some of your favorite
          problems and hardest sends?

Dave: My favorite problems are the ones that take dedication, time and energy. The process of these sends were more educational then the send itself. Projecting forces you to learn about yourself and dig deeper then ever imagined.
I put up Jackie Chancellor V10 a few years back. This problem was a struggle for me. Multiple days were spent trying crazy hard before the execution. I also hooked up a problem next to it called Body Karate V9. This was a fierce battle that ended in a beautiful sought after boulder problem. I am currently trying to link the two up into a final masterpiece that would be freakishly cool. Last problem is this highball I called Evil Empire. The problem stands around 30 feet tall with the crux at about 25 feet. You are finding yourself with long reaches while crimping out on a vertical face. In the meantime your shoes are positioned on dime sized edges, praying not to take another spill from that height. During the send my mind was saying, "God please get me through this". My prayers were answered.

FRB: So Ill is coming out with a crash pad called,
          drumroll please....................... The Hazmat!
          By the way, that is the best name I have ever
          heard. Are you psyched?

Dave: Super psyched with the new pads. We have 3 sizes in store for our customers. The Acne pad, Hazmat and the Carcass Catcher. Dan and I spent many evenings brainstorming and gathering feedback from climbers. We created our pads with the concept we use for our holds Ultra freaking BOMBER. We beefed up our pads with reinforced corners and some fly ass chrome buckles. We double stitched the shoulder straps and added 1680 D. ballistic nylon shell. This keeps it solid for the abuse Crashpads take.

FRB: There is nothing more hazardous than some of
          Colorado's boulder problems. Thanks for saving
          our asses! Can we expect to see you in
          Colorado's Front Range anytime soon?

Dave: This fall I am committed to so ill and Arkansas. For some amazing sandstone. I also find it hard to leave because of work and those Midwest girls! (hahahha).

FRB: Stevie Wonder or Marvin Gaye?

Dave: Neither, I am thinking more led Zeppelin.

FRB: Thanks for the interview Dave.

Dave: I would just like to shout out to all the people who have supported Dan and I. I truly feel blessed when I think about all the support we have from friends and family.

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