FRB: How did you get into climbing
first year of college in New Mexico, that was 1971.
FRB: You've climbed a long time,
what keeps you
New routes and a few good climbing friends.
FRB: Who were some of your early mentors?
Bob: Mike Roybal in New Mexico,
Steve Wunsch, Kevin Bein and John Bragg from the "Gunks".
FRB: Who do you climb with usually?
Bob: I climb alot with Vaino
Kodas, a great climber living in Boulder.
FRB: You have been doing new routes in
what can you tell us
Bob: They are mostly up above
Boulder Falls and on or near the Wall of Winter Warmth. Vaino Kodas
and I have done most of them together and think a number of them are
good routes. There is still a number of good routes to do in the canyon
if you are willing to hike to, clean them and bolt them.
FRB: You have developed other areas like
how did you find it?
Bob: I met Lew Hoffman in the
Garden of the Gods in the spring of 1984. I took my first trip to climb
in the valley with the great boulderer, Bob Murray. We first climbed
at the Rock Garden and then went for a run into Penitente Canyon. It's
all history from then on. It really is a special place to climb and
FRB: What about Buena Vista?
Bob: I climbed a fair amount
near Buena Vista and done a couple of FA's.
FRB: How about the bouldering at Monte Vista?
Bob: I know about Hidden Gulch
and some other areas. They are quite good.
FRB: Do you have any new guidebooks
coming out soon?
Bob: Yes a hiking guide to
the Front Range, a mountain bike guide to northern New Mexico and a
new (second edition) mountain bike guide to the Denver/Boulder area.
FRB: What else do you like to do besides
climb and write?
Bob: I trail run a lot and
mountain bike with my kids.
FRB: What do you think of enhancing, chipping
and gluing holds.
Bob: Not much, I think gluing
a natural hold that has broke or about to break OK to do.
FRB: Climbing is popular now. How do we be
of the land?
involved in cleanups and access issues.
FRB: What makes for a 'perfect' sport route?
Bob: The ones that you can
float up. Position, moves, proper bolt placement and good rock.
FRB: Where do you think the best bouldering
in the Front
Bob: Right here in the Boulder/Estes
FRB: Do you have any favorite problems or
ones that you
thought were incredible?
Bob: Hagan Wall, Face Out,
First Overhang, Just Right.
FRB: What is the direction bouldering
Bob: I think bouldering is getting long. There were
very few 40 moves boulder problems in the 60's, 70's and 80's.
FRB: What are your thoughts on Highballing?
Bob: I like it and very rarely
used a crash pad/futon.
FRB: What do you got for training secrets, tips?
What do you recommend?
Try other sports and keep the right mental attitude.
FRB: What keeps you psyched to train?
Bob: Routes I can't do.
FRB: Parting words of wisdom.
Bob: Well I thought I would
have a bunch at my age (almost 50) but its pretty simple. Enjoy being
outside, enjoy your friends and enjoy the rock. Climbing is a wonderful
FRB: Thanks for the interview Bob.
Bob: You’re welcome.