FRB: Full name?
5'10" 150 lbs.
FRB: Ape Index?
FRB: Political affiliation?
registered democrat. FRB: How did you get into climbing, Brad?
Way back in 1985, I happened to
move into a house where Christian Griffith and Alan Lester also lived. They had
a bachar ladder strung up right outside our living room window while a crack machine
was bolted to a tree in the backyard. Later Christian added a chipped route on
the side of the house. I'd see these guys along with other visitors like Dale
Goddard, Eric Goukis and other swing by. After talking to them a bit I thought
I should be climbing too. Christian sold me a pair of boreals ,after that all
I needed was a chalk bag, and I was off for Flagstaff. I think I bouldered there
for almost a year. Remember, with no gyms and very few bolts, the only climbing
was with gear. Eventually I learned how to place gear and that opened up a new
world, often scary with Eldorado as the local climbing area.
You've been climbing around here for a long time,
tell us a little about you, Brad?
I still love climbing and the sport is in my heart. However, there are so many
other sports that I'm interested in. One sport involves the ocean. I got into
surfing before climbing which is almost a curse because of where I live and work.
I've spent quite a bit of time in Central America which helps with that surfing
thing. While I'm in Colorado climbing is my main focus. My friends Steve Hong,
Steve Damboies and Pat Adams keep me motivated to train and stay fit. Other friends
, like Eric Cutler, get me outside and mix it up with mountain biking, snow boarding
FRB: Where do you like
to climb and with whom?
I climb a lot at the BRC
during the week. Rifle is one of my favorite areas in the state. Boulder Canyon
has some great routes too, and it's right in our backyard. I've bouldered from
the Poudre Canyon to Morrison and many areas in between the two. FRB: Tell us some highlights of your climbing career, Brad.
Steve Damboise and Pat Adams (Jim Karn used to climb with us many moons ago) are
who I climb with. Sometimes I share a thoughtful quote to keep them in place such
as, "I train trainers." Or lend them one of my deep repertoire of moves,
such as an inward flag, or I just tell them to do it (the moves) my way...just
Climbing the perfect limestone of Europe was for sure a
highlight. For some reason every Fall I get an urge to go on a climbing trip to
somewhere like France. Others include: Climbing in Rifle 15 weekends in a row
with Steve Damboise. Felt in great climbing shape after that. Climbing three Black
Canyon routes in a day with Alan Lester, and he drove all the way back to Boulder
after we finished! Climbing the Diamond, and all the great road trips and adventures
FRB: Tell us something about you most people don't
Central America is my home away from home.
FRB: What else do you
do besides climb, Brad?
There are so many things I'm interested in. I skateboard a few times a week which
is great. Christian and Steve Hong were skating really well but both retired from
promising careers. Eric Cutler is still skates, so at least I have someone to
go with. Surfing is big. That sport can really drive you crazy though. You can
get so wrapped up in tidal movements and every weather nuance that your head starts
FRB: You've seen a lot of changes in the climbing world,
tell us some of
the good and bad.
I started climbing at the advent
of the bolting wars. People probably can't even believe that now. Christian deserves
a lot of credit for standing up to the status quo and causing them some disequilibrium
in their thinking. Climbing on routes with rappel placed bolts changed the sport
so much for the better (as long as routes are bolted with thought). Rifle has
been good. The climbing community is a good. Climbing gyms are a very good thing.
Bad would be the closure of climbing areas and bolting bans. Bad too, would be
squeezing in routes and adding stupid variations. I hate getting on routes where
you can go right, left, diagonal and up, because there are bolts everywhere.FRB:
Tell us about some of your favorite partners (climbing).
All the people I've spoken about are so positive and motivated. They are serious
and have a lot of fun while climbing.
FRB: Favorite author, favorite
color, favorite dog, favorite car?
Right now I'm reading Teacher Man by Frank McCourt. Favorite color is black. Favorite
dog: any dog at the humane society. Car would be something fast that handles well.
Too many to choose from. Favorite climbing shoes are Five
Ten, and my favorite climbing company is Metolius, best gear, period.
What should be done about global warming?
It seems to me that the USA should follow global treaties and not be above world
FRB: What's your take on the immigration issue?
I do know if I was a Mexican national
living in poverty and hungry, I would do the same. That is, risk my life to come
North. "What the North gives, it also takes away." - Bruce Springsteen.
Boulder has changed over the years,
what do you like and dislike about some
of the changes you've seen?
I guess what I like there are still
people who won't give up bucking the status quo in one way or another. I'm not
talking about anarchy, just rethinking and unlearning and relearning things. I
know Eric Doub creating a solar house in which xcel pays him fits that definition.
Boulder has the right way of thinking with all the bike paths. Bad things: Mountain
bikers lost all access to trails at their doorstep. Seems like their could be
some equity in sharing the trails while keeping them safe and enjoyable for all.
Could you do something about the wind.
FRB: Who do you think has
made the biggest impact
the climbing world?
Bernt Arnold and climbers around
Dresden. Talk about inspirational.
FRB: How do you want to be remembered
in the climbing world?
He climbed some good routes.
What would say to someone just starting out in climbing?
Have fun. Having a good belayer
is so important to climbing well.
words of wisdom?
A mini-session is better than no
session, and do triples or quads (3-4 routes in a row redpoint max) to end a workout.
Thanks for the interview, Brad.
My pleasure. Hope this works.